New York - What would you say is the most controversial of all men’s
sweaters? The red and green reindeer-smeared Christmas crewneck? The sadly
emasculating sweater vest? The tennis sweater wrapped around the neck in the
manner of a villain in an ’80s teen comedy?
While all of the above are worthy contestants for this
curious distinction, I must posit that the title is properly deserved by a
sweater now coming back into season and into fashion: the lightweight cardigan.
The cardigan in general has suffered the slights of
armchair fashion critics. The standard objection is that it lends its wearers
all of the forcefulness (and none of the charm) of the host of Mr. Rogers’
Neighborhood. Forty years ago, President Jimmy Carter wore a
cardigan to give a White House address—a fashion moment that
coincided with the decline of his political fortunes. And this is just the
tip of the button-up iceberg.
The odd jacket out
Eating away at its reputation in much the same way moths
nibble at wool yarn, detractors scoff at it as a garment appropriate only for
the aged, the mousy, the soft. The recent popular success of the moderately
chunky shawl-collar cardigan, as made by Rag & Bone, Ralph Lauren RRL, and
others, delivers the haters a definitive rebuke. It is the coziest piece
of chest-exalting knitwear a man is likely to find.
Meanwhile, cardigans made from more delicate yarn such
as extra-fine merino wool and pima cotton continue to attract
the same taunts. Sometimes these disses are fully well-deserved, but it’s all
in how you wear it.
And the cardigan is very much worth wearing this time of
year. It is easy to remove, an essential factor in your own personal
climate control. Flexible in its flimsiness, the thin cardigan
negotiates changeable weather with dignity if you treat it and yourself with
the proper degree of respect.
The fundamental trouble with the lightweight cardigan
sweater is that it is a replacement for a jacket that does not always
suffice as a substitute. This is especially true if the cardigan is asked
to replace a suit jacket, a task for which it is comically ill-prepared. A
cardigan that matches the color of your suit trousers is a cardigan that
makes you look like you ineptly tried to perpetrate a crime against formality
that is not even worth committing.
Business casual
In a business-casual context, it is brighter to conceive
of the light cardigan as an easygoing brother of the odd jacket. You will seem
altogether more sane in a sweater if there’s some color contrast between
your upper and lower halves. The same principle applies to cardigans worn with
suits as if they were vests.
The looks described immediately above are viable, if
we’re talking about introducing the cardigan to an ensemble featuring a dark
suit and spread-collar shirt and a conventional silk tie. Still, they are
potentially goofy. The cardigan more frequently calls for something on the
order of a button-down collar and a knit tie. It most wants to be worn under a
jacket that is quasi-professorial—made of corduroy or tweed.
You can get away with wearing a tie pin with your
cardigan if and only if you are Mr. Fred Rogers. Who, lamentably, is dead. He
will rest all the more peacefully if you follow his example. You’ll never go
wrong if you wear it in a context that would also be appropriate for something like classic
Keds.
Three New Cardigans Worth a Look
Vince Mixed-Stitch Cotton-Blend Cardigan Versatile
enough to see you through many occasions, this navy number wants to be worn all
weekend long. ($295 at barneys.com)
Gucci Wool Cardigan A bold sweater built to keep things
light (and luxe) beneath a blue blazer or gray jacket. ($1,150 at gucci.com)
Comme des Garçons Play Lambswool Cardigan A camel-colored
sweater with a boyish cut, best matched with blue jeans. ($415 at
nordstrom.com)
BLOOMBERG