South African women are taking their bras from the bedroom to the boardroom, but as fashion entrenches innerwear as outerwear, Omeshnie Naidoo asks how much is too much
Crop-top bras, sheer fabrics and sporty cuts are all on trend when it comes to undies this year.
But perhaps the biggest trend in fashionable underwear is to wear it for all to see.
Season after season we have seen lingerie edge its way into daywear.
At international fashion weeks, labels such as Burberry and Celine presented layered outfits that hint at what lies beneath as well as slippery, silky dresses. While on the red carpet slinky celebrities such as Rihanna and Gywneth Paltrow have been showing up at events in what look like sexy pyjamas.
Channelling Kate Moss in the 1990s, the slip dress is back in full force, and a clear signifier of the global trend that sees innerwear transition into outerwear this year.
However, surfboard-celebrities have nothing on South African women, whose fuller figures demand we approach the trend with caution.
There is also the question of what is appropriate.
We all remember a time when women flashed their G-strings (thankfully, that’s over) and when men wore their pants low enough to reveal branded elastic bands on their boxers.
Gone are the days when you shopped around to find the “perfect bra” that would serve its purpose without anyone even knowing it was there. These days, peek-a-boo bra straps in matching or contrasting colours to one’s outfit are an added accessory.
But, of course, showing more underwear often means showing more skin.
While feminists are caught up in campaigns, some suggesting we “free the nipple” and others that we don’t show breasts (each with far too many denominators to censor), many women are letting fashion and their own personal boundaries dictate how much they’ll show.
Thandi Makhanya, due to launch the online store Define Your Sexy (www.dysonline.co.za) on February 27, is celebrating going live with a lingerie fashion show at Greyville Racecourse in Durban on the night. The line-up includes The Bedroom, DKSA Lingerie, SNS Sleepwear and Kwame Jazz Couture.
She says, “underwear is definitely hot right now, how much you show should be determined by the context”.
“Culturally-speaking, baring it all is not an issue for me, so I have to be cautious when I’m dressing for business.
“What I might be comfortable with, may not suit my company culture or client.
“I’m a full-figured woman, which means I have to be careful with following trends blindly as well. Some things just won’t work on me.
“You can’t put your boobs away and bring them out on the weekend, so you have to find clothes you like that are still appropriate for work and your body type.
“There’s a fine line between aiming to look attractive and being attention seeking.
“Most of us know that if you show a little, men are going to look a little and you have to be prepared for that if you follow this trend.
“Most South African women are voluptuous and rather than let it count against them, it’s better to wield their power,” she says.
“It’s important to accept your body and make the most of it.”
According to Tamarin Brunton, part owner of The Bedroom, the way in which South African women are interpreting this trend is by using under garments to actually help them cover up.
“Many clothes on our shelves are already skimpy. What we have found is that women are enjoying full-body stockings (made with fabric similar to fishnet) and suspenders which allow you to wear those garments but still cover up a bit.”
Brunton says, “Our underwear and sleepwear are very sexy with lots of lace and mesh but there are some pieces that can take your daywear look up a few notches.
“If you’re keen to get in on this trend I suggest wearing a white lace teddy (similar to a one-piece swimming costume) under a white blouse. This will look sexy and professional with a suit.
“The look should be provocative rather than raunchy. Satin slip dresses are another popular piece this season. Wear them with chunky boots, sneakers like Rihanna, or a masculine jacket.”
Dawn Kolm, who custom designs and manufactures garments for her label DKSA Lingerie, says the trick to striking a balance is to combine innerwear and outerwear to create a sassy look. “My customers often wear my lacy babydoll nighties as dresses or as tops with jeans and heels.
Kolm says, “I think women are enjoying this trend, because it is a way in which to express their sexuality. Mainstream fashion is going in a totally different direction to the way in which many women see themselves. Lingerie meets those needs. It is feminine and beautiful and appeals to women who have come into their own.
Makhanya adds, “Menswear has encroached on our territory, their pants are more fitted and their shirts often tight across their chests. They’re also borrowing a lot from women’s wear. So I think women want to get their sexy on too. The rules have changed.”
Daily News