A taste of Boland bliss at Delaire

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A Dylan Lewis cheetah guards the Delaire helipad.

The sanding machines were going full blast in the Delaire restaurant when we arrived. Although this elegant and airy venue has been open for less than three years, owner Laurence Graff decided that it needed lightening and brightening ahead of spring.

But the wine lounge was quiet, warm and welcoming with a fire glowing in the hearth and a wealth of bottles and glasses on counter and tables.

Delaire has acquired a well-deserved reputation for gourmet fare, fine wine, five-star lodges, world-class spa and more, all sited on the crest of a Stellenbosch peak offering some of the finest views in the Boland. It’s a destination where the helipad, perched among indigenous terraced gardens, is likely to be as well used as the car-park.

Inside, contemporary art adorns the walls and sculptures are positioned to advantage. Both the sophisticated jewellery shop – the first Graff diamond salon in Africa – and the Capri Boutique with its charming but pricey linen fashion ranges confirm the impression that you’re in a setting catering for people with deep pockets. Amid this luxury, the pricing of the wines comes as a pleasing contrast, as does the down-to-earth, unaffected charm of Jackie van Wyk, assistant to winemaker Morné Vrey.

The 20ha of estate vineyards are young, yielding harvests for the first time this year. The wines are made in one of the best-equipped cellars in the hemisphere, with no fewer than four presses – one of which is reserved for making port. When you hear that cellarmaster Vrey is a Calitzdorp boy, the necessity of producing a Delaire port becomes clear.

Delaire’s rosé 2011 is made from cab franc (R65), salmon-hued, dry but juicy with discernible body. A summery aperitif that will partner items on menus in both restaurants well.

Morn� Vreys Delaire wines justify his spectacular cellar.

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Both sauvignon blancs are delightful wines. The 2011 Delaire (R79) is aromatic, fresh and fruity, made from grapes from Lutzville, Walker Bay and Durbanville. Grapes for the Coastal Cuvée 2011 (R95) were sourced from Stellenbosch, Durbanville and Darling, while Franschhoek provided 5 percent semillon, which adds satiny complexity.

Old Swartland bush vines yielded fruit for the single-vineyard 2011 chenin (R98), which spent nine months in French oak, a pleasing example of complex but not overpowering chenin blanc. At R105, Delaire’s quality 2011 chardonnay – wooded for nine months – is on a par with competitors at far higher prices.

Turning to reds, the maiden 2009 merlot should be available next week, while the 2010 shiraz, a pleasing balance of fruit and elegance, offers good value at R75. As does the estate flagship 2009 Botmaskop (R130), a cab-led blend augmented by cab franc, petit verdot, shiraz and a dash each of malbec and merlot. Elegant and polished, velvety tannins accompany characteristic fruit and spice.

Lunch in the Indochine restaurant proved a treat of oriental flavours, dewy fresh fare where each creation is a culinary work of art. Even better relished when you hear how insistent executive chef Campbell is on sourcing ingredients from ethical suppliers, preferably organic growers. His beef is never stall-fed, and his lamb is naturally reared up to slaughter.

High on the Botmaskop slopes the restaurant’s herb and vegetable garden is also home to hard-to-find oriental herbs. The menu presents sophisticated takes on North Indian, Thai and Vietnamese cuisines. Think calamari and green pea starter, spiked with green peppercorn, mint, Thai basil, green curry and lime, or a tuna laksa enhanced with butternut, tatsoi, green chilli and nori omelette. I also savoured the mix of garlic, cumin, coriander and turmeric that seasons Burmese linefish with aubergine and tomato.

It was a cold, rainy midweek day, but the restaurant was full over lunch, proving that locals, along with international diners, are prepared to pay well for a memorable gastronomic experience. - Weekend Argus

Chef Campbells exquisite vegetable springrolls.

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