Cape Town - There is an ocean of bubbles out there and the tide continues to rise. With numerous cellars listing sparkling wines or cap classiques in their range, consumers have an impressive, if somewhat daunting array to consider.
The basic difference between wines with fizz is easy to pinpoint: if the bubbly is not labelled MCC (Methode Cap Classique), then it’s a sparkling wine that has been carbonated. This is an easy and relatively inexpensive method of making uncomplicated bubblies and the price should reflect this. The best of our champagne-style wines offer excellent quality at half the price of the Gallic imports, while the Italian proseccos have prices pegged close to local fizz.
Now, news of some distinctive and diverse releases…
Amid flowering fynbos, guarded by an 18th-century VOC cannon, Vondeling launched its maiden Rurale 2013 Methode Ancestral (R220) at the farm’s highest point on the Paardeberg summit.
Distinctive as being only the second local cellar to employ a 16th-century rural French production method – where riper-than-usual grapes were fermented until a tiny but critical amount of sugar remained – when the fermenting wine was bottled and capped.
This tricky manoeuvre preceded 16 months maturation before disgorging and topping up with the same wine. Just 1 200 bottles were produced – a rich and pure expression of the farm’s berries, finished with a creaminess that renders it irresistible.
From Paardeberg heights to Paarl and Avondale, known for its organic biodynamic principles, dubbed BioLOGIC by Jonathan Grieve, who recently released another all-chardonnay limited edition MCC – the maiden vintage of Armilla Blanc de Blanc 2009 (R198).
This is worthy testimony to the Grieves’ philosophy, offering low-sulphur pleasure, combining fresh elegance with complexity developed after five years on the lees.
With a nod to the fine tradition of night harvesting introduced by the Krones at Twee Jonge Gezellen near Tulbagh, a sweeter bubbly was recently launched. Krone Night Nectar 2011 Demi-sec cap classique (R110) is a classic combo of chardonnay and pinot noir that will enhance rich liver patés, blue cheese and fruity desserts.
The bright retro label on Steenberg’s new sparkling sauvignon blanc (R99) hints at youthful delights of a bubbly that’s fresh as a daisy with enough structure to please. Not quite a cap classique, but few will care as they pop the corks as the temperature heads into the thirties.
Popular in Italy is the charmat method of bubbly production, rating somewhere between champagne-method and carbonation. The second fermentation takes place in a pressure tank instead of the bottle, and the Distelleria Bottega, near Venice, uses it to make prosecco from Glera grapes. If you enjoy the Prosecco Brut (R180) which makes a great companion to every menu course, you may wish to splash out on the Bottega Gold (R369) which offers plenty of bling in its gold-plated bottle. Floral and fruity aromas precede biscuit flavours and a lively mousse.
A final pause at Bon Courage outside Robertson, a cellar that produces enjoyable value-for-money bubblies. It recently marked the 21st birthday of its Blush, a pink sparkler that’s fruity, refreshing, sweet and popular. At R45, it’s affordable and adds low-alcohol cheer to South African weddings and family celebrations.
Wine calendar
Groote Post invites families and friends to head to its historic farm in the Darling Hills on the last Sunday of each month and relish the wares at its country market.
Entrance is free, market stalls offer arts, crafts and loads of regional gourmet produce, and there is live music. Children can enjoy tractor rides and watch sheep-shearing. There will be a special Groote Post market day rosé on sale along with Darling Brew.
Hilda’s Kitchen will be closed on October 26, but will be open from next month’s event.
Weekend Argus