Cape Town - Investing in chenin, lifting its quality, putting it up there with other great white wines of the world. These are the aims of the Chenin Blanc Association, formed 13 years ago by a small group of dedicated producers.
Today, membership has reached 95 and, given the range and choice available, it’s clear that more cellars are choosing to focus on quality chenin blancs.
From the consumer point of view, there’s still some educating required.
Because chenin has long been the largest cultivar in production, accounting for nearly 30 percent of our white wine, and 20 percent of all production, used mostly for brandy and as a blending component of cheap whites, the grape is regarded as a lowly workhorse by many. But, the perception is changing, thanks to innovative winemaking and research by the association and the University of Stellenbosch, which has proven that this versatile grape is capable of producing superb quality in styles that range from fresh and fruity to rich and complex.
Brilliant chenin dessert wines are on the market and a few bubblies are adding a further category.
On the down side, this choice adds to customer confusion, and it’s clear that simply written information on style is needed on chenin labels. Similar guides on store shelves would also help.
The chenin renaissance, rooted in the 1990s, is coming of age.
The grape has been cultivated here since 1655 when it was known as steen – the fact that they are one and the same cultivar was officially confirmed by Prof Orffer of the viticultural faculty at Stellenbosch 50 years ago.
Winemakers focusing on chenin are nurturing heritage bush vines (including some that have marked their half-century in the soil), pruning severely to cut back on yields, then picking riper grapes that offer beautiful fruit. Barrel matured chenins and longer maturation both help create wines of impressive quality, and the old vines also contribute elegant complexity and minerality in our top chenins.
Chenin Association chairman Ken Forrester combines a long-held passion for the grape with a production range that includes chenins of every persuasion. He is about to release a number of new vintages.
Several young innovative winemakers are producing some of the finest South African chenins from rejuvenated vineyards.
Those rated five-star by Platter include Alheit Cartology, Jean Daneel Signature and Sadie Family Skurfberg. They are impressive, usually intense, mostly oaked and, although pricy, should be sampled by all who enjoy this varietal. Some, like Cartology, are limited editions, selling out soon after launching.
There is an increasing number of well-balanced chenins that fall into the middle price range: At the top end, Oldenburg’s 2011 chenin (R118), with 14 percent chardonnay, is a rich, but zesty combination of minerality, layers of fruit and oak, while Bosman’s De Bos 2012 (R60 ex-farm) represents excellent value, elegant, fruity and appealing. Kleine Zalze’s chenin 2012 (R70) continues to offer consistent quality, fresh and fruity touched with creaminess, having matured in new, second and third fill barrels for seven months.
It’s not difficult to hunt down enjoyable chenin selling for under R50. The Perdeberg chenin (R32.50) and reserve chenin (R44.50) come to mind, while Slanghoek continues to please with its chenin at R28.50.
To my mind, chenin comes into its own in autumn, as it seems to be in sync with seasonal harvests: Think salads of red pepper, poultry baked with apple or pear, pumpkin risotto, and butternut-filled ravioli with brown butter. - Weekend Argus