Cool-climate wines great for hot summer

Published Aug 31, 2011

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With temperatures rising, weekends are becoming a lot more sociable and wine show season is back in full swing.

The recent Joburg Wine Show was a treat. Those not familiar with wine tasting think it’s all about getting sozzled, but it really is better to spit, not swallow, especially when more than 130 estates are exhibiting. It’s impossible to enjoy wine otherwise, because by the third glass you’re not likely to taste very much at all.

Try as you might, though, it’s still impossible to taste everything in one day, but the ones that stood out for me were Constantia Glen’s new release sauvignon blanc, La Vierge’s pinot noir and weisser riesling, and Auction Crossing’s shiraz/viognier and viognier.

A boutique estate perched on the upper reaches of the Constantiaberg, Constantia Glen has a reputation for exceptional cool-climate sauvignon blancs with good ageing potential. The new release 2010 sauvignon blanc is the second vintage to include 13 percent viognier. It’s also slightly wooded.

Winemaker Karl Lambour explains: “Constantia as a region offers wines that age beautifully yet offers some elements of leanness in youth. Our aim with the barrel fermented portion was to add fullness and richness at the outset and in so doing fashion a complex and complete wine.”

The 2010 vintage sells from the cellar door at R100 a bottle.

La Vierge (French for “the Virgin”) is based in another cool-climate area – the Hemel-and-Aarde Valley, outside Hermanus. Producers of premium pinot noir, their maiden vintage was launched last August. Named simply Noir, this pinot has a darker complexion than its other local counterparts, reflecting the earthy, savoury aromas of its original home in Burgundy, France. Although still quite young, it’s drinking well now and will keep for up to five years.

Their Last Temptation weisser riesling, with green melons and terpene on the nose, is a fine example of the Alsace style. The Garden of Eden branding theme might be quirky – other wines in the range include Original Sin (sauvignon blanc), Jezebelle (chardonnay) and Nymphomane (cab-malbec) – but don’t be fooled: they produce bloody marvellous wines. The pinot sells for R180, the riesling for R95 (ex cellar).

Auction Crossing, from the Hex River Valley, is a small producer of just two wines – a syrah-viognier blend and a viognier, two Rhône varietals.

The blend is a result of a co-fermentation of a small quantity of viognier (8 percent) and syrah to produce a complex wine with a unique buchu flavour.

From the syrah, you get black cherries, spice and pepper; from the viognier, red fruits, floral flavours and a hint of peach, which lightens and lengthens the finish. Their viognier is redolent of fresh white peaches. Paired with spicy foods, viognier really comes into its own.

The 2005 syrah-viognier was a double gold winner at the 2007 Veritas awards (sold out) so I stocked up on some 2009s and viognier. The 2009 blend costs R110 and the 2010 viognier R60.

The next wine event in Jozi comes up on Spring Day – the Cape Winemakers Guild tasting – followed by September 17 and 18’s bubbly festival at Hyde Park, then the Juliet Cullinan on the 21st and 22nd at the Wanderers.

Roll on, summer… - The Star

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