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Today the farm is huge, sprawling across 974 hectares, of which 400 are clothed in vines.

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The expression “timeless tranquillity” is an overworked one, but it describes the feel at Plaisir de Merle to a T.

From a smiling welcome at the entrance booms to the 18th century farmstead – which overlooks verdant lawns, vines and towering mountains – this is an elegant venue that offers unhurried tastings with cellar tours and overnight stays for special functions.

The wines may be contemporary, the cellar modern and the pairings trendy (cashew nuts with chardonnay?) but this farm wears three centuries of history with quiet pride. The original grant was settled by Charles Marais in 1693, with 60 morgen that he named Le Plessis Marly. Later generations completed the classic gabled house in 1764. This recently underwent restoration to make a gracious venue for functions and small parties.

Today the farm is huge, sprawling across 974 hectares, of which 400 are clothed in vines. Of these, 80ha are destined for the home cellar. To mark the 300th anniversary in 1993, a new cellar was opened, blending with its historic surrounds and offering visitors a great view of activities from a catwalk at the upper level.

The Plaisir de Merle brand was launched at the same time.

Cellarmaster Niel Bester, a perfectionist of few words, has been at the helm for 20 years. In consultation with renowned French expert Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux and with input from German fundis, he has developed a winemaking style that produces elegant, well-structured wines with good ageing potential that are ready for drinking while fairly young.

While most of the production is destined for export, local visitors can sample both the classic labels and limited release cultivar wines that you will not find elsewhere.

Start with the elegant 2011 screwcapped sauvignon blanc, go on to the lightly oaked chardonnay that offers an appealing mix of fruit and buttery toast, before turning to the reds. The cab is fresh and enjoyable, enlivened with splashes of merlot, shiraz and petit verdot. The keynote 2007 Grand Plaisir, a blend of cab, shiraz and other Bordeaux varieties, will continue to improve into the teen years of the century. Among the limited releases are cab franc, malbec and petit verdot.

Plaisir de Merle was one of the first farms to attain BWI status as removal of alien vegetation has been done for some 25 years. It has been replaced with fynbos – protea is plentiful high on the Simonsberg along with wild olive and other indigenous trees. Local inhabitants include antelope, leopard, lynx and porcupine, while waterfowl and raptors are frequent visitors.

A former barn houses the comfortable tasting centre. There are a range of tasting options, a mini-tasting of three (R10) just right for the designated driver, perhaps, to a standard tasting for R40. Pairing labels with savoury or sweet bites costs R50, also the price of sampling the limited edition wines. A blind tasting of six wines (R50) yields a prize of wine to those who identify them correctly. Informal luncheon platters (R80) can be prebooked for those wanting something more substantial.

“No loud music, I hope?” I am often asked. No, but soft classical music is discernible inside. Rather take your choice of wine outside and dream under the oaks to the melody of birdsong. Bester predicted last month that harvesting would start in the second week of February, so visitors to the cellar should find plenty of action. Cellar tours need to be pre-booked. The farm is closed on Sunday. For more information, call 021 874 1071, - Weekend Argus

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