Rare and memorable tastings

Steenberg Vineyards.

Steenberg Vineyards.

Published Jun 27, 2014

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Durban - Sometimes the perks of wine writing are far greater than the obvious. There are review bottles across the price spectrum and food and wine pairings worthy of royalty, but there are also opportunities laudable for the memory banks, particularly when the experience is a rarity.

Steenberg Vineyards broke tradition this year to launch the Magna Carta 2011 (cellar door price: R525), the latest vintage of its iconic wine. The blend is 60 percent sauvignon blanc and 40 percent barrel-fermented semillon and touted as representing Steenberg’s best vintages.

After blending, the wine returns to barrels for another seven months before fining, bottling and maturing. It takes hand-crafting to another level and was a personal journey of satisfaction in being the first time this wine, from any vintage, had entered my tasting glass.

The winery received several Old Mutual Trophy Wine Show accolades. The Magna Carta 2011 claimed the ultimate distinction, winning the Grande Roche Trophy, while the Steenberg Semillon 2007 and 2011 vintages won silver medals.

There is no escaping the stratospheric price tag, but it is an outstanding, world-class wine that stands as a testament to Steenberg’s dedication to sublime quality.

Another new experience was the Muratie Ben Prins Cape Vintage 2009 (R170) packaged in a stylish black canister. The port-style wine pays homage to the estate’s legendary winemaker between 1957 and 1987. Affectionately known as Barefoot Ben, his trademark was his bare feet.

Muratie first produced port-style wines in the 1940s and Prins continued the tradition. The one now bearing his legend was produced from a vineyard planted in 1965 with Portuguese varietals tinta barocca, tinta roritz, tinta francesca and souzao, and the result is a seamlessly integrated fortified wine reminiscent of Christmas cake. However, it is sealed with a cork and not a cork stopper. So, either you must finish the bottle in a single sitting or decant and thus make redundant the elegant packaging.

Last on the journey of experience were the Reyneke Biodynamic Syrah (R100) and Reyneke Organic Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon (R60). The estate, created in 1998 when Johan Reyneke took over the family farm, is a trail-blazer; a leading light on organic and biodynamic farming and a world-class wine producer.

Reyneke made the bold move to start the slow process of converting conventional farming to organic sustainability, followed by the subsequent progression to biodynamic self-sufficiency.

He remains steadfast in the belief that organic and biodynamic farming is the route to coax out the best wines from the earth, while remaining environmental integrity – and these two examples are proof of his success. - The Mercury

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