An awesome taste of Israel

Published Jun 18, 2014

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Sababa – Middle Eastern And Mediterranean Food

By Tal Smith and Nirit Saban

Jacana, R250

 

Not many cuisines can compete with the fresh, spicy, nourishing comfort flavours of Israeli food, which comprises a cultural hodge podge from around the Semitic world. For sisters Tal Smith and Nirit Saban, of mixed Sephardi-Ashkenazi Jewish descent, it is the food they ate at home.

“Sababa” is Hebrew slang meaning “awesome” and, as a play on the family name Saban, inspired the sisters to open a small Israeli-style falafel stand at the Neighbourhood Goods Market in Woodstock in Cape Town

Through their exposure at the market, people started placing orders with them, which is how their home-catering business was born. When a space opened in the Piazza St John’s in Sea Point, the Sababa deli was their next step. Three years later, Nirit returned from Israel, having worked for a top chef and a renowned bakery. When a bigger spot opened on Bree Street, it was time to open a formal eatery.

Styling their food on fresh, contemporary Middle Eastern flavours reminiscent of Yotam Ottolenghi, their first book is titled Sabada – Middle Eastern and Mediterranean Food. It is beautifully styled (by Tal’s husband, food photographer Russell Smith), with gorgeous crunchy salads, a large vegetarian selection, and meat dishes to drool over (paprika and garlic roast chicken which is served with tahini; a tender Moroccan roast brisket; and mafrum – potato pockets stuffed with meat, fried, and dunked in a paprika tomato sauce).

And what’s not to love about a classic almond and apple tart? Or rugelach – a popular Israeli croissant-like pastry filled with dark chocolate and drenched in syrup?

Commenting there are some “terrible cakes that come out over Passover” (I must concur), their matzo cake is a triumph – layers of matzo slices dipped in Kiddush wine or rum, layered with dark chocolate and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds.

Saturday Star

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