Reuben Cooks Local
Reuben Riffel with photographs by Craig Fraser
Quivertree Publica tions
Our top Cape celebrity chef keeps getting better as he gets older: his portrait on the front cover, complete with designer stubble, is that of a determined man who knows what he wants, but the eyes reflect the generosity for which he is also renowned.
Reuben Riffel is one of SA’s best-known culinary success stories; his rise from a boy in small-town Franschhoek – where he was introduced to home-grown produce at an early age – to award-winning chef presiding over the kitchens of three renowned restaurants has been well documented.
Riffel oversees the cuisine at the popular Reuben’s in Franschhoek and the Robertson Small Hotel, as well as holding the post of concept chef at the prestigious One&Only hotel at the Waterfront in Cape Town. Then there are the TV shows and radio chats, and he always makes time for charitable causes.
While fully aware of gastronomic trends and fads, he remains true to his SA roots, using local produce whenever possible, and his recipes are seasonal, mostly simple and always delectable.
In this large hardback he stays with this philosophy, taking indigenous and heritage ingredients and transforming them into contemporary fare that is as good to look at as to savour.
Seafood makes the opening section, and our linefish, calamari, oysters, mussels and crayfish are celebrated in a slew of irresistible offerings: calamari with braised potato, preserved lemon and parsley is original but not complicated, as is char-grilled tuna with asparagus, aioli and jalapeño dressing.
“From the Field” covers red meat, poultry and cheese, with pride of place going to Karoo lamb. Mutton ribbetjies topped with thyme and orange on a barley risotto makes a sustaining combination and there’s an intriguing rendering of an early Cape dish featuring brinjal and vinegared lamb mince.
Riffel’s ideas in the “From the Earth” section add up to an appetising and colourful mix of salads and soup, pasta and risotto, and warm weather desserts like summer berries or apple and cucumber in Pimm’s jelly with frozen meringue.
“Harvests from the Orchard” start with a Granny Smith apple soup, followed by an anchovy, caramelised onion and olive tart, which is sure to be outstanding – his tarts always are.
Along with venison, ingredients starring in “From the Wild” include buchu and waterblommetjie. Wine features in the final chapter, in sauces, dressings and desserts.
Every recipe is matched with a full-page colour photograph, and there are equally stunning rustic shots of orchards in blossom, a ripe olive hanging off a branch. Coffee table or kitchen shelf? Perhaps we need to invest in two copies. - Sunday Argus