Cook a zucchini - recipe

Zucchini With Ajo Blanco Dressing and Spiced Nuts. Photo for The Washington Post by Dixie D. Vereen

Zucchini With Ajo Blanco Dressing and Spiced Nuts. Photo for The Washington Post by Dixie D. Vereen

Published Jul 1, 2015

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Washington - Most of the time, when I hear that someone doesn’t like vegetables, I ask a few questions and come to the same conclusion: It’s about texture – typically the texture that resulted from drastic overcooking (or, worse, canning) experienced in the eater’s childhood. Slimy, mushy beets. Soggy Brussels sprouts. Grey, limp asparagus.

Which is when I’ll get on a soapbox about proper techniques: Foil-wrap and bake those beets until a skewer can just easily go through them, but no further.

Roast those Brussels sprouts at high heat, and in a big enough pan that there’s room for air to circulate. Blanch, sauté or roast that asparagus until it just starts to bend at the tip when you pick it up – and not a second longer.

Some of us don’t mind mushy vegetables now and then, of course: I can boil or steam some squash until it’s soft, then mash it with a little olive oil and parmesan and be a happy camper.

But if I want to eat it with a little more intent – and, say, use a knife and fork instead of a spoon – I’ll treat it a little more carefully.

Sometimes, the technique involves cutting the vegetable to the proper size. When I make squash or zucchini for my boyfriend, who hates it when vegetables are soft, I slice them into big chunks, which gives me that much more wiggle room when cooking.

That’s what I did with a recipe by Melbourne-based chef Matt Wilkinson for zucchini that you sear in a ridged grill pan then finish briefly in the oven before combining with an amazing dressing that’s a riff on Spanish white Gazpacho, or Ajoblanco.

The finishing touch for this unconventional salad is nuts that have been sprinkled with my favourite fairy dust: smoked Spanish paprika.

When cooked that way, zucchini has the most wonderful texture: just barely soft in the centre, slightly crunchy on the outside. It’s juicy, not mushy, and could help any zucchini hater come to their senses.

Washington Post

 

Make Ahead:

The dressing can be refrigerated for up to 1 week. Let it come to room temperature, or warm it slightly in the microwave, before serving. Serves: 4-6

FOR THE DRESSING

2 slices white bread, crusts removed

1 cup slivered almonds

1 clove garlic

1 tsp sherry vinegar

½ cup extra-virgin olive oil

½ tsp fine sea salt, plus more as needed

¾ cup ice-cold water

FOR THE ZUCCHINI AND NUTS

2 to 3 medium zucchini, stemmed and cut into 2.5cm chunks

2 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil

2 Tbs skin-on hazelnuts, chopped

2 Tbs chopped blanched almonds

2 Tbs chopped walnuts

Pinch smoked Spanish paprika

¼ teaspoon fine sea salt, plus more as needed

½ cup packed fresh mint, chopped

½ cup packed fresh flat-leaf parsley, chopped

Freshly ground black pepper

For the dressing:

Soak the bread in water for 5 minutes. Drain and gently squeeze the bread, then combine it in a blender with the almonds, garlic, vinegar, oil and the ½ teaspoon of salt.

Gradually add the cold water and blend on high for 30 seconds or until a smooth puree forms. Taste, and add salt as needed. The yield is 1½ cups.

For the zucchini

Preheat the oven to 180ºC. Heat a grill pan over medium-high heat on the stove top until it sends up slight wisps of smoke.

Brush the cut sides of the zucchini pieces with 1 tablespoon of the oil. Cook on the grill pan, turning them over now and then, until char marks appear all over.

Transfer to a baking sheet; finish cooking them in the oven for another 2 to 3 minutes, until they are barely tender yet still have a slight crunch. Cover loosely to keep warm.

Combine the nuts and remaining tablespoon of oil in a small saucepan over medium heat, stirring to coat; warm through until fragrant.

Transfer the nuts to a bowl, then sprinkle with the smoked paprika and salt.

To assemble the dish, place the warm zucchini in a large mixing bowl, along with the mint, parsley and nuts, and toss gently to combine.

Taste, and add salt and pepper as needed.

Dollop or smear most of the dressing around the bottom of a serving platter, then arrange the zucchini salad on top.

If desired, drizzle some more dressing on top.

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