Washington - Bored with finding cures for cancer and beating Jeopardy champions at their own game, the IBM computer system known as Watson has taken up a hobby: cooking.
For the past three years, the system's keepers have fed it a steady diet of cookbooks and food theory. They're trying to train a machine - which can't even taste (!) - to understand what makes a good recipe.
Recently, Watson got so pro that, along with chefs from the Institute of Culinary Education in New York, it published a cookbook, an eccentric 231-page tome crowded with what its creators call “recipes for innovation.”
There's a weird beef burrito accented with chocolate and edamame. A risotto studded with candied ginger, of all possible things. A pumpkin-ricotta cheesecake with savoury mushroom meringues.
“Watson amplifies human creativity,” said Steve Abrams, an IBM engineer who worked on the Chef Watson team. “It's a collaboration that allows Watson and the chef to discover more than either of them could independently.”
My personal adventures with Watson begin, as so many kitchen adventures do, with some overlooked, frost-bitten produce I needed to use. I'd planned to throw the frozen corn into a soup, but in the age of “cognitive cooking,” that's for amateurs.
Home cooks, alas, don't have access to quite the same version of Chef Watson that the Institute of Culinary Education did. But IBM, in partnership with Bon Appetit magazine, has released a slightly less robust web app (https://www.ibmchefwatson.com) that basically uses the same technology.
You input your ingredients and preferences: a dessert with corn and sugar, I said.
And Watson generates pairing suggestions: pumpkin puree, medjool dates... horseradish.
From there, you can add and subtract ingredients, cuisines and dishes from Watson's list until the system generates a satisfactory recipe template.
Watson is enormously complicated, so it's hard to explain exactly what the site is doing when it makes its recommendations. But in the most basic terms, Watson ingests a huge amount of unstructured data - recipes, books, academic studies, tweets - and analyses it for patterns the human eye wouldn't detect. (If you've seen the recent blockbuster “Ex Machina,” you have a general, if sci-fi, model for this type of machine-learning.)
To create the web app for home cooks, IBM researchers input nearly 10 000 recipes from Bon Appetit. To make the professional version of Chef Watson, researchers went even further: 30 000-plus recipes, scraped from the Internet; spreadsheets on the molecular makeup of different flavour and odour compounds in food; and academic research into the smells and tastes that people find most pleasurable, an obscure field known as “hedonic psychophysics.”
Much of that information is too technical, too literally microscopic, to register on most chefs' radar. (Did you know, for instance, that white wine and tomatoes share the chemical compound hexenal?) As Watson crawls the recipe log, it calculates which foods appear in recipes together, and the statistical frequency of each match. It plots chemical affinities on a complex computational knowledge graph.
Corn, Watson decided, pairs pretty well with berries. Using the Watson app, I eventually ended up with a recipe for Corn Wedding Tarts, adapted from a more conventional version with rhubarb and phyllo pastry.
At the Institute of Culinary Education, chefs working with IBM probed Watson for similarly novel pairings. Asked for Spanish pastry ingredients, Watson suggested pepper, saffron, coconut milk, lemon extract and honey. Later, chef James Briscione turned to Watson for inspiration for a Creole-spiced dumpling. The system spit out okra, tomatoes, lamb and shrimp, among other things.
“If you look at the list of ingredients, it's just gumbo,” Briscione said. “But I would never have thought to condense gumbo and put it in a dumpling like that... It's such a collaboration between you and the man in the machine.”
Briscione likens the Watson experience to solving a puzzle: You know the ingredients will work together, but not how or in what form. It's like a more cerebral take on the popular Food Network show Chopped - which Briscione, incidentally, has won twice.
My Corn Wedding Tarts are... interesting. Not interesting in quite the same way as the chocolate-beef burrito from Watson's cookbook, with its confoundingly cohesive garnishes of soybean and Edam cheese. Also not, thankfully, interesting in the same way as the mushroom-flavoured whipped cream that topped an otherwise excellent cheesecake. (We fed that to our dog, who thought it was great.)
Instead, the corn tarts are just benignly peculiar: crooked rectangles of pie crust, topped with a sticky mound of corn and ginger in a strawberry-jam glaze. Strawberries and corn, it turns out, contain high concentrations of an organic compound called furaneol, which is why this combination, against all odds, approaches okay.
Still, I find myself wondering why Watson didn't suggest a corn panna cotta with strawberry sauce, or maybe a sweet corn ice cream. In the introduction to their cookbook, the tech-heads at IBM expound at length on the concept of “cognitive computing” - the idea that systems like Watson have become so advanced, they can actually rival human creativity.
Alas, all the engineering advances in the world haven't taught Watson that mixing corn and jam creates a sticky, mottled goop - or that said goop doesn't make for appropriate wedding food.
“There will always be a collaborative relationship between the cook and the information,” Briscione said. “You could have the best computer in the world, but without someone who knows what they're doing in the kitchen, it's not going to work.”
That said, Watson is getting better all the time, both as a chef and as a machine. Watson incorporates user feedback into its algorithms, which means it's always improving.
The cookbook is not the end of the road for Chef Watson: IBM's Abrams says the company is researching applications for use by the food and beverage industries. (The Post reached out to several chefs for comment, but none cared to speculate on their future under the machines.) Future home versions of Watson could also know your health and dietary needs, creating recipes that are vegan or low-sugar or gluten-free. The Institute of Culinary Education, still partnered with IBM, uses the program to instruct its trainees.
All of this is a sideshow for IBM, of course; the company created Chef Watson only as “a metaphor,” Abrams says, for the types of creative “thinking” Watson can do. Elsewhere in IBM's labyrinthine operation, Watson is advising veterans on their finances and researching potential therapies to treat cancer. A Canadian company recently launched a Watson-powered program that it says recommends medical treatments to veterinarians, “just like a colleague in the room.”
Abrams bristles at the suggestion that Watson could someday replace actual human chefs - or actual human ingenuity. “That's not what the program was intended for,” he said, without explicitly denying the possibility.
I crunch my way through a slice of Corn Wedding Tart, secure that such a day is still pretty far off. As long as Watson is pairing frozen corn and jam, we humans still have a shot.
Creole Shrimp-Lamb Dumplings
5 or 6 servings (makes 22 to 25 dumplings)
From Briscione's notes: “Having grown up cooking in seafood restaurants in the Florida Panhandle - 'just down the road from New Orleans' - I was excited to tackle Creole flavours with Watson. Familiar ingredients like okra and file powder made me happy, but putting lamb and shrimp together in the same dish was something I had never imagined doing, in any context... The result is far greater than the sum of its parts.”
The dumpling dough should be similar to a pasta dough; if you have a pasta machine, you'll get a more even, thin wrapper than if you roll by hand. You'll need a 3-inch (7.6cm) round cookie cutter or template and a thermometer for monitoring the frying oil.
Store-bought wonton wrappers can be substituted for the handmade chickpea dough wrappers.
MAKE AHEAD: The dough needs to rest for 20 minutes (at room temperature) before it's rolled out.
Ingredients
1 1/2 cups to 2 1/4 cups chickpea flour, plus more for the work surface
3 tablespoons ghee or unsalted butter
3/4 cup water
4 ounces (about 120g) ground lamb
1 tablespoon kosher salt
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup minced celery
1/2 cup no-salt-added diced tomatoes (no juices)
1/2 cup no-salt-added chicken broth
3/4 cup packed, trimmed okra, blanched, then cut into small dice (see note below)
1/2 teaspoon file powder (ground sassafras)
4 ounces (about 120g) peeled and deveined raw shrimp, chopped
Vegetable oil, for frying
1 tablespoon chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 large egg, beaten
Steps
Combine 1 1/2 cups of the chickpea flour, 2 tablespoons of the ghee or butter and the water in a food processor; pulse to form a dough that collects in a ball, adding flour as needed to make that happen. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and let it sit at room temperature for 20 minutes.
Melt the remaining tablespoon of ghee or butter in a medium saute pan over medium heat. Add the lamb; season with 1 1/2 teaspoons of the salt and 1/2 teaspoon of the pepper. Cook until the meat has lost its raw look, stirring as needed to break up any clumps. Add the celery and cook for a few minutes, until it has softened.
Add the tomatoes, broth, okra, file powder and the remaining salt and pepper; cook for about 6 minutes, then stir in the shrimp; cook for about 6 minutes (for a total of 12 minutes), until the mixture has reduced and its moisture has mostly evaporated. Transfer to a container; cool, cover and refrigerate the filling mixture until ready to use.
Pour oil to a depth of 4 or 5 inches (10 to 13cm) in a heavy-bottomed pot; heat over medium-high heat so the oil reaches 350 degrees (180degC). Adjust the heat as needed to maintain the temperature. Set a wire cooling rack over a baking sheet lined with paper towels.
Stir the parsley and lemon juice into the filling mixture. The yield is about 2 cups.
Use the pasta machine (per the manufacturer's directions) or lightly flour a work surface and roll out the dough to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Cut the dough into 3-inch rounds; scraps can be rerolled once or twice, but they will be less tender than the first rounds. You'll be able to make 22 to 25 rounds.
Drop large spoonfuls of the filling mixture at the centre of each round. Use a pastry brush or your finger to moisten the edges of the dough with the beaten egg. Fold over each filled round into a half-moon shape, pressing the edges to seal them tight. You might have a little filling left over.
Fry 4 or 5 dumplings at a time for a few minutes, until golden brown and crisped. Transfer to the rack to drain; repeat to fry all the dumplings. Serve warm.
NOTE: To blanch the okra, bring a pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the okra and cook for 30 to 45 seconds, then use a slotted spoon to transfer the okra to an ice-water bath to cool. Drain and pat dry.
Nutrition Per dumpling (based on 25): 130 calories, 2 g protein, 4 g carbohydrates, 12 g fat, 3 g saturated fat, 10 mg cholesterol, 130 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber, 0 g sugar
Swiss-Thai Asparagus Quiche
4 servings (makes four 4-inch quiches)
These quiches are the product of a collaboration between Michael Laiskonis, creative director at New York's Institute of Culinary Education, and Chef Watson.
Note from Laiskonis: “This output presents a few surprising (and perhaps challenging) flavours, particularly with the addition of lemon grass. The combination of dairy products - yogurt, feta and Gruyere - also serves up an uncommon complexity.”
You'll need four 4-inch (10cm) ring moulds (or use 4 1/2-inch fluted tartlet pans with removable bottoms). You will have half of the dough left over; if you can, roll it out on a piece of plastic wrap, top with a second piece of plastic wrap, then roll and place in zip-top bag. It can be frozen for up to 3 months.
Cut each quiche into quarters and serve as an hors d'oeuvre, as a first course or with a salad for lunch.
MAKE AHEAD: The dough for the crust needs two refrigerated rests; for 1 hour and, once it's rolled out, for 20 minutes. The tart shells can be baked a few hours in advance. The lemon grass infusion, the leek and the asparagus can be prepped and refrigerated a day in advance.
Ingredients
For the crust
Scant 1 teaspoon (4 grams) fine sea salt
2 1/2 cups flour, plus more for the work surface
3 tablespoons warm water
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted, plus more for greasing the ring moulds
3 large egg yolks
For the filling
1/2 stalk lemon grass, thinly sliced
1 teaspoon coriander seed
1/2 cup whole milk
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 large leek (white parts only), cleaned and finely chopped (1/2 cup)
Fine sea salt
8 to 12 asparagus spears (woody ends trimmed off), cut into 1-inch (2.5cm) pieces
3 large eggs, plus 1 large egg yolk
1/4 cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons plain whole-milk yogurt
1/4 teaspoon mild curry powder
Freshly ground black pepper
About 1 ounce (1/4 cup) crumbled feta cheese
1 1/2 ounces (1/2 cup) freshly grated Gruyere cheese
1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Steps
For the crust: Combine the sea salt and flour in the bowl of a stand mixer or handheld electric mixer; beat on low speed to blend.
Stir together the water, melted butter and egg yolks in a liquid measuring cup.
Beating on low speed, add the water mixture in three additions to form a rough dough that holds together. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap; refrigerate for at least 1 hour and up to 1 day.
Lightly flour a work surface. Divide the dough in half; roll out each half on the work surface to an 8-by-12-inch rectangle. Reserve one for later use (see headnote); transfer the remaining rectangle of dough to a flexible cutting board and refrigerate for 20 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees (180degC). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone liner. Use a little butter to grease the ring molds, then arrange them on the baking sheet.
Cut a total of four 5-inch rounds from the chilled dough, rerolling as needed. Line the ring molds with the dough, handling the dough as little as possible so it stays cold. (Pop the dough rounds in the refrigerator for 10 to 15 minutes to firm up if the dough gets too soft.) Trim the top edges of the dough as needed. Bake for about 14 minutes or until the tart shells become a light golden brown. Let them cool on the baking sheet.
When you're ready to bake the quiches, preheat the oven to 350 degrees (180C).
For the filling: Combine the lemon grass, coriander seed and milk in a small saucepan over medium heat. Once the mixture starts to bubble at the edges, turn off the heat; let it sit for 10 to 15 minutes to infuse. Strain and cool the milk, discarding the solids.
Meanwhile, melt the butter in a small saute pan over medium-low heat. Once it's foamy, stir in the leek; cook for about 3 minutes or until it is soft but not browned at all. Let cool.
Fill a bowl with ice water. Bring a small saucepan of water to a boil over high heat. Add a pinch of sea salt and the asparagus pieces; cook for about 30 seconds or just until they've turned a brighter shade of green. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the pieces to the ice-water bath to cool. Drain and pat dry.
Whisk together the eggs and egg yolk in a mixing bowl, then add the infused milk, cream, yogurt, curry powder, a good pinch of black pepper and a pinch of sea salt. Fold in the cooled leek, the feta, half of the Gruyere and half of the chopped parsley until well incorporated.
Divide the egg-vegetable mixture among the baked tart shells (still in their rings). Divide the asparagus pieces evenly among them, then top each one with the remaining Gruyere. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, until lightly set and very lightly browned.
Cool slightly before unmoulding and serving; sprinkle the top of each quiche with the remaining parsley.
Nutrition Per serving: 530 calories, 17 g protein, 36 g carbohydrates, 36 g fat, 20 g saturated fat, 345 mg cholesterol, 470 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar
Austrian Chocolate Burritos
6 servings
Laiskonis and Chef Watson were challenged to blend culinary cultures in this dish. The result has surprising complexity thanks to mashed edamame, a chocolate-apricot puree and ground beef spiced with a touch of cinnamon.
MAKE AHEAD: The ground beef, apricot puree and mashed edamame can be prepped and refrigerated a day or two in advance; reheat the beef until thoroughly warmed through, and bring the puree and mash to room temperature before serving.
Ingredients
1 pound (about 450g) lean ground beef
Finely grated zest of 1 orange (1 to 1 1/2 tablespoons)
Pinch ground cinnamon
1 1/2 ounces (about 40g) dark chocolate (70 percent cacao solids), very finely chopped, plus more for optional garnish
Fine sea salt
1/2 cup apricot puree (see note below)
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
1 1/2 cups shelled edamame
Six 10-inch flour tortillas
A few tablespoons vegetable shortening, melted
About 3 ounces Edam cheese, grated (1 cup)
1/2 cup crumbled queso fresco or cotija cheese, for garnish (about 3 ounces)
Steps
Grease a nonstick skillet with cooking oil spray; heat over medium heat. Add the ground beef and cook, breaking up any clumps, until the meat has browned. Turn off the heat. Drain off/discard the fat, then stir in the orange zest, cinnamon and 1 ounce of the dark chocolate. Season lightly with salt and transfer to a bowl.
Combine the apricot puree and the vanilla bean scrapings in a small saucepan over medium heat. Cook, stirring often, until the puree has reduced to about 1/4 cup; it will darken. Remove from the heat; stir in remaining 1/2 ounce of dark chocolate until melted and well incorporated. Transfer to a bowl.
Fill a bowl with ice water. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the edamame; cook/blanch for about 1 minute, then drain and transfer to the ice-water bath. Cool, then drain and transfer to a mini food processor; pulse to form a coarse mash/paste.
Season lightly with salt and transfer to a bowl.
When ready to assemble, heat 1 tortilla at a time in a dry skillet or on a griddle over medium-low heat. Brush the surface of each warmed tortilla with a little of the melted vegetable shortening (to help keep it flexible for rolling).
Spoon portions of the ground beef mixture, mashed edamame and the grated cheese at the centre of each tortilla. Roll and fold into 6 burritos, placing them on a platter or individual plates. Top with the queso fresco or cotija cheese, some of the apricot puree and a sprinkling of the dark chocolate, if desired.
NOTE: To make the apricot puree, place 8 ounces (about 220g) dried (unsweetened) apricots in a small saucepan. Cover with water by an inch or so; bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low. Cook for 5 to 10 minutes, until tender. Drain, transfer to a mini food processor and puree until smooth. You might have leftover puree, which can be refrigerated for up to 1 week and used to top pancakes or crepes.
Nutrition Per serving: 630 calories, 30 g protein, 69 g carbohydrates, 26 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 65 mg cholesterol, 710 mg sodium, 7 g dietary fiber, 27 g sugar
Washington Post