London - From goji berries to acai, chia seeds to quinoa, every day there seems to be a new ‘superfood’ hitting the supermarket shelves.
Each has huge health claims - promising to protect against everything from cancer to weight gain - and often a price tag to match. Not to mention a celebrity following.
According to the British Dietetic Association (BDA), 61 percent of people questioned had purchased a food just because it had been labelled a ‘superfood’. But what exactly is a superfood - and are they really all they’re cracked up to be?
Nutritionist Ian Marber is sceptical: ‘There is no definition of a superfood, except that it’s a food with a marketing department,’ he says.
‘It helps when the food in question comes from an exotic, remote area and “has been widely used by tribesmen for thousands of years”. They tend to have a hefty price tag, which adds to the allure.’
Marber is not the only one with reservations. The EU has banned the term on packaging, unless it can be backed up with substantial science, and Cancer Research has deemed the phrase ‘just a marketing tool’.
Even worse than the foods not living up to the hype, some claims have been made that, in high doses, these foods can actually be harmful, resulting in thyroid problems and arthritis flare-ups.
Which? magazine says we could save up to £440 a year by ditching expensive superfoods in favour of old-fashioned, vitamin-rich foods such as kiwi fruit and broccoli.
So just how super are superfoods?
KALE
SUPER CLAIMS: The dark green leaves are loaded with vitamins, calcium, iron and other nutrients.
NOT-SO-SUPER REALITY: The current fad for adding raw kale to everything from salads to smoothies means you are consuming compounds known as glucosinolates. In certain people these can interfere with thyroid function, enlarging it and causing a mass known as a goiter, in very high doses.
Hormones produced by the thyroid control everything from fatigue to anxiety, and can even cause weight gain.
IAN’S VERDICT: Kale is only considered to interfere with the thyroid when eaten raw, and you’d have to eat a lot for it to be an issue - one green smoothie a day isn’t going to hurt you. Better yet, cook it. when these vegetables are lightly steamed, this issue goes away, and they’re very healthy.
GOJI BERRIES
SUPER CLAIMS: Goji berries have been a traditional part of Chinese medicine for centuries. Available in dried fruit or juice form, these shrivelled, red berries are alleged to boost the immune system and brain activity, protect against heart disease and cancer and improve life expectancy.
NOT-SO-SUPER REALITY: The BDA argues that you would need to drink 13 servings of goji berry juice to get as many antioxidants as you’d find in one red apple.
Concern has been raised that goji berries are rich in a chemical compound called saponins, which increases the risk of a digestive syndrome called ‘leaky gut’, which may let toxins seep into the body.
The berries may also interact with diabetes and blood pressure medicines, and have been linked to skin rashes.
Finally, goji berries are part of the nightshade family of plants, which can cause inflammation and exacerbate conditions such as arthritis.
IAN’S VERDICT: I would always go for fresh rather than dry berries, which have a higher ratio of sugar to fibre, and eat blueberries, raspberries, strawberries and blackberries for antioxidants - and a better taste.
CHIA SEEDS
SUPER CLAIMS: These are from a mint-like plant that grows in Latin America. Weight for weight, chia has up to eight times more omega-3 than salmon, and the seeds are full of protein, minerals and antioxidants. They are also good for dieters, as they make you feel fuller.
NOT-SO-SUPER REALITY: Chia seeds swell to a gelatinous mass in the stomach and can cause tummy aches, wind and bloating.
They are also high in phytates, antioxidant compounds that have the potential to inhibit the absorption of certain minerals.
They’re also very pricey: 500g costs up to £10.
IAN’S VERDICT: Do you really want to eat 300g of chia seeds, or would you rather eat the salmon?
QUINOA
SUPER CLAIMS: The South American supergrain (though it isn’t actually a grain, but a seed) contains up to 18 per cent more protein than any other grain, and amino acids to build muscle and body tissue. Naturally gluten-free, it’s low GI.
NOT-SO-SUPER REALITY: Despite the protein, quinoa contains potentially gut-irritating saponins and lectins. Some report gas and bloating after eating it, which might be because of its very high fibre content. There are concerns about cross-contamination with wheat in the fields where it’s grown or in processing plants, which means it may not be as gluten-free as thought.
IAN’S VERDICT: Quinoa is a great source of protein - the only concern I have is that so much of it is exported, the locals can’t afford to buy it in Peru any more.
COCONUT WATER
SUPER CLAIMS: Coconut water has become Britain’s fastest-growing soft drink. It’s made by extracting the fluid inside unripe green coconuts. The drink is said to be high in potassium and magnesium.
These minerals are depleted after exercise, so coconut water is often sold as a post-workout drink.
NOT-SO-SUPER REALITY: While coconut water is relatively low in calories (around 20kcal per 100ml), most of these come from naturally occurring sugar. One 330ml serving contains three teaspoons of sugar, half your recommended daily allowance.
A 2012 study concluded there was little difference between water, coconut water and sports drinks in promoting rehydration after exercise.
IAN’S VERDICT: I like the taste, but it is no more hydrating than plain water - and far more expensive.
ACAI BERRY
SUPER CLAIMS: With double the antioxidants of blueberries, along with protein, fibre, essential fats, vitamins and minerals, they are also touted as a weight-loss aid.
NOT-SO-SUPER REALITY: The supposed weight-loss effect is unproven, and few scientific studies have tested the benefit of acai in promoting weight loss.
IAN’S VERDICT: I don’t believe acai berries help you lose weight, and there is debate as to whether we benefit from ingesting such concentrated levels of nutrients in one go.
WHEATGRASS
SUPER CLAIMS: Loved by everyone from Gwyneth Paltrow to Elle Macpherson, this liquidised or powdered grass is an ingredient in juices and smoothies.
NOT-SO-SUPER REALITY: It doesn’t even contain enough nutrients to count towards your five-a-day.
IAN’S VERDICT: Broccoli is a cheaper, easier alternative - it contains chlorophyll, vitamins A, C and E, iron and calcium, and is a fraction of the price. - Daily Mail