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Our eyes are the first place to show the signs of ageing, but all it takes is a few simple make-up tricks to make them look younger and brighter, instantly. Here, three top make-up artists share their best tips, tools and products for creating beautiful eyes at any age.
PROBLEM: Crepey lids
Solution: Cream shadow
“If the skin is crepey on your eyelids, eye shadow can accentuate the creases, so try applying a touch of concealer or illuminating foundation to create a light, even base,” says Julia Biddecome, the make-up artist chosen by the Duchess of Cornwall on her wedding day.
“Then, using your fingers, apply long-lasting cream shadow only to the lid and into the socket - don’t apply all over the eye.”
PROBLEM: Small eyes
Solution: Curl your lashes
“Nothing will enlarge your eyes as quickly or effectively as curling your upper lashes,” says Julia.
“For the best results, press your eyelash curler as close to the base of your lashes as possible, then apply your mascara, curl again, then add another coat.
“As a final touch, take an old mascara brush and comb through any cloggy bits.”
PROBLEM: Under-eye bags
Solution: Instant de-puffer
“As you age, bags under your eyes can press against your lashes when you blink. This results in smudges under your bottom lashes, which onlymake you look more tired,” says Julia.
“Tackle under-eye puffiness with First Aid Beauty Detox Eye Roller, £18 ((available internationally from www.feelunique.com).
“This is a new, roller-ball style de-puffer that contains caffeine, hyaluronate and advanced peptides to tighten and smooth delicate undereye skin. It also provides a good canvas for concealer.
“If you do suffer from undereye puffiness, avoid drawing harsh lines under the eyes because they will only highlight the problem.”
PROBLEM: Hooded eyes
Solution: Blending brush
“Make sure you are looking straight ahead at yourself in the mirror, rather than down at a mirror, when applying eye shadow,” says celebrity make-up artist Lisa Eldridge, who works with Kate Winslet, Vanessa Redgrave and Joely Richardson.
“They will help you to create some depth at the socket line. If you are using powder shadow, you need a large blending brush - most people pick one that’s far too small.
“Choose a light or medium taupe shade in a matte shadow for the best results.”
PROBLEM: Sparse eyebrows
Solution: Clever eye pen
“Strong brows can really lift your face, but the older you are, the less you suit a hard graphic line,” says Lisa. “As you age, you may find gaps in your brows or that the colour has faded.
“Pencil in the gaps using light, feathering strokes - this lifts everything by a few millimetres.
PROBLEM: Wobbly eyeliner
Solution: Delicate touch
“Eyeliner is one of the hardest things to get right, and it’s even more difficult when the skin around your eye is creased,” says Hannah Martin, the make-up artist who worked with Kate Middleton on her wedding day.
“The trick is to use a delicate tool. I like Bobbi Brown’s Ultra Fine Eyeliner brush, which can be used to make lots of little strokes along the base of the upper lashes.
“To get a good flick, place your liner brush in the outside corner of the eye and paint a line that continues your lower lashes.
“If drawing under the eyes, ensure the liner is a softer shade than the shadow you’ve used above the eye, so that it doesn’t look too heavy.
“Sometimes dark liner under the eyes can overshadow whatever you have applied on top.”
PROBLEM: Droopy lids
Solution: Subtle flick
“It’s easy to create the illusion of the eyes lifting slightly upwards,” says Julia.
“First, define your eyes with a pencil, gently working it into your top lash line. Go for brown or grey, which are more flattering than black.
“When you get to the corner of the eye, use a cotton bud to tease the end of the pencil line upwards into a flick.
“Another eye-lifting trick is to take a concealer penin a shade lighter than you usually wear and add a tiny touch at the outer corner of the eyes.”
PROBLEM: Sliding eye make-up
“A light dusting of powder will set your eye make-up and prevent it sliding about,” says Hannah.
“The secret is to use a thicker eye shadow blending brush, which is smaller than the average powder brush, but the perfect size to use with loose powder to make sure you get into all the crepey bits and crevices evenly.
“Finally, don’t forget to apply powder under the eyes to catch any falling bits of mascara or eyeshadow.” - Daily Mail