Out with contouring, in with strobing

Published Jul 27, 2015

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Durban - Contouring - popularised by celebrity Kim Kardashian - is a make-up artists’ trick which uses light and dark foundations and concealers to emphasise the features of one’s face.

But it has many of us baffled. It seems a great deal to do before rushing out of the house each morning.

But here you can see why highlighting, or strobing, as it’s being called, is taking off.

Strobing is all about using highlighters/illuminators and other sheer cream or powder products to create a sun kissed look.

With the help of model Thembi Magwaza, local make-up artist Zogra Cox offered these step-by-step make-up instructions:

 

Primer

If you don’t already own a primer, it’s time you invested in one. Almost every cosmetic house has one and it’s key to a dewy, smooth, hydrated-looking make-up application.

 

Concealer

Cox uses a dry brush to apply concealer under the eye and around the mouth. It is essentially to cover any blemishes. Cox says brushes are a great investment and also help to ensure you don’t waste your products as you might by using your fingers or a sponge.

 

Foundation

Choose a foundation as close to your natural skin colour as possible. Work section by section and work fast to ensure it does not dry on the skin. Apply outward and upward. Cox says never drag the skin down when applying make-up – you don’t want to help the aging process. Remember to blend foundation into the neck as well, to ensure a seamless finish.

If your lips are chapped, a light bit of eye cream at this stage, will ensure they’re fine for lipstick later.

 

Eye shadow

Eyes this spring need to look bright and healthy. Opt for an on-trend pastel colour that suits you. Work with the shape of your eye: a darker colour will draw protruding eyes in, while a cooler colour will bring sunken eyes out.

Apply with a brush in a patting motion. In the day time, one colour is enough; you can add another to take the look from day to night.

Do not stretch the soft skin around your eyes.

If you like, you can do your eye make-up first so any mistakes with liner can be easily wiped away without interfering with your foundation.

 

Eyebrows

A groomed look is in. Use a brow brush before applying eye shadow to emphasis the brow.

Cox uses brown eye shadow on very light skin and black eye shadow on darker skin. She uses eye shadow instead of a pencil to keep the look soft and natural.

 

Eye liner

Use a kohl pencil to draw a feathered line above the top eye lashes. Use a stubby brush to blend the line, working in circular motions. The spring look is soft, so always aim to avoid harsh lines of colour.

Use a creamy white liner on the waterline to ensure eyes appear fresh.

 

Strobe

Cox uses an illuminator on the cheeks, the ridge of the nose, the edge of the nose, the chin, the middle of the forehead and underneath the outer-end of the eyebrow.

You may use a light foundation, a mineral powder or a shimmery cream or bronzer – it depends on what looks most natural on you. If you have oily skin, opt for a matt pearly highlighter and use oil-free products.

Use finish spray or studio fix spray when blending and allow to dry.

 

Mascara

Cox applies mascara to the top lid of lashes only. This is a matter of preference.

 

Blush

Apply blush to the apples of the cheeks, blending well.

 

Lips

Lip liner is great for balancing out the top and bottom lip, it also helps your lipstick last longer. Cox applies colour with a brush before coating with a clear gloss.

 

Pictures: Shelley Kjonstad and Gcina Ndwalane

The Mercury

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