Fashion is coming down from its high perch, writes Robin Givhan.
The track pants, T-shirts and jackets are basic black, which doesn't sound all that interesting, but the colour manages to give it all a sleeker look so that it is at once retro and kitschy but also modern.
Alexander Wang designed the collection in collaboration with Adidas Originals, which he unveiled on the runway as part of his spring 2017 presentation.
Once upon a time sweatpants and sweatshirts were just throwaway garments meant for, well, sweating. Then along came hip hop and Run-DMC and Juicy Couture, and sweat suits became a fashion thing, a cultural thing, a rarefied thing - not because of how they looked but because of how much they cost.
Athleisure trackpants.
Credit: Washington Post
These Wang-Adidas unisex sweats were unleashed on the world with a massive drum roll, as the finale to Wang's runway show, which brought out Madonna and her daughter Lourdes Leon. One assumes they were there to support her son Rocco Ritchie, who models in the fashion campaign for the collaboration.
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The advertising campaign for the collection features models on the streets of New York looking particularly grumpy, perhaps because several of them appear to be dragging overstuffed garbage bags - or perhaps designer gym bags that just look like bin bags. Whatever they are, they don't look fun to haul around.
Kim Kardashian in athleisure trackpants.
Credit: Washington Post
The unveiling of the 84-piece unisex collection, which also included footwear, was celebrated after the runway show with an elaborate video and music festival that suddenly appeared as the catwalk's backdrop gave way to reveal a performance stage, a fully functional 7-Eleven, a McDonald's and plenty of booze.
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That is a lot of hoopla to sell track pants, pullovers and sneakers, which speaks to the dominance of street and athletic style over pretty much everything else in the fashion universe. Sacai's Chitose Abe has created a collection with Nike. Stella McCartney has a long relationship with Adidas. Athletic gear has influenced everything.
Still, when these sportswear companies step into the fashion ring, they often can't resist bringing in a celebrity to add sizzle, whether it's Rihanna at Puma or another Adidas co-conspirator, Kanye West. It's really unnecessary.
Fenty x puma track suit athleisure.
Credit: Washington Post
High fashion isn't welcoming lowly street-wear into its rarefied world by giving it a luxury makeover. The balance long ago shifted.
Fashion is coming down from its high perch to marvel at the allure of a sweatshirt.