Gallery: Weaving a spell with jewellery

Published Nov 15, 2013

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Durban - Songezo Baleni is one of the most gifted jewellery designers I’ve come across. Mind you, the only jewellery I’m ever interested in is cufflinks. And when I saw a pair of cufflinks he had made, I knew this guy was legit.

He’s shown his wares at the Design Indaba (his career highlight so far), and was recently named by House and Leisure magazine as one of the top five rising stars in design to watch. Not to mention being featured in many local glossies. He’s also been invited back to the Design Indaba next year.

Gemstones litter his work station at the Durban University of Technology’s Jewellery Design Department, his alma mater and where he lectures part-time. Some woven silver is on the table, as are some of the tools of his trade. He’s busy setting a red stone (a ruby, perhaps? It seems rude to ask if the stone is real) on a ring. It’s tiny and is the last one in a row of five. Satisfied with his work, he takes off his magnifying glasses and soon we are laughing about how awesome it is that he can make his girlfriend a unique piece of jewellery whenever he feels like it.

Born 28 years ago in rural nMzimkhulu in southern KwaZulu-Natal, he herded cattle when he was younger and he always knew he wanted to do something different.

“It’s funny now that I think about it. I used to be fascinated with braiding grass. Even the whips we used on the cows, they were braided to make them thick so we could control the cows. He who has the whip, has the power. But I think that’s when the love for weaving and braiding started for me. I would notice these small things that other boys wouldn’t.”

He fashioned his first ring using a pressure pump from a primer stove. “When the stove was old, I would take the rings, clean them up and try make them look nice. So when I told my mother I wanted to be a jewellery designer, she was okay with it.

“I didn’t have the pressure to become an engineer or an accountant so I could make money for the family. She understood, and what’s even more awesome is that her favourite pieces are those that I made using the rings from the primer stove.”

He looks at one of his newer bangles: it’s silver and intricately woven in a cable stitch pattern. “Maybe I should give her this bangle for Christmas. She loves bangles.”

Songezo’s jewellery has caught the eye of industry professionals. His work is distinctive and refreshing.

“I needed something that would differentiate me from other jewellery designers. I’ve always been interested in weaving and braiding, so I thought why not?”

He shows me a woven ring he did in his third year. “As you can see I’ve improved my technique. I decided in third year that my jewellery would feature weaving in it.”

Songezo says that what differentiates him from other jewellers is not just the weaving, but the patterns and stitches he uses in his jewellery.

“I use various stitches – that is where I draw my inspiration from. From cable knit, to ordinary braiding… For one of my pieces, a statement necklace, I used a cable knit design from a jersey. It took it from a basic piece to what I think is a stunner.”

He doesn’t really follow jewellery trends as he wants his work to be unique and classic.

“I guess the only trends I follow are when I check what the well-known international jewellery houses are doing colourwise. While I’m always looking for new ideas to incorporate into my designs, I really like keeping to my weaving and braiding. It sets my work apart.”

Songezo’s favourite piece is part of the Metal Mentle collection he made for Veronica Anderson Jewellery.

“It’s a silver and 18ct yellow gold necklace, with a matching bracelet, ring and earrings. Radio DJ Anele Mdoda wore the earrings when she was on the cover of Top Billing magazine in 2010. It hasn’t sold though. I guess it’s too expensive,” he said with a laugh.

Veronica Anderson Jewellery houses most of his jewellery.

Songezo received a merit award at the 2011 PlatAfrica Awards and also the DUT Emma Smith Art Scholar-ship Award for 2012, including prize money of R40 000. His work has been featured in magazines like Business Day’s Wanted and Destiny.

But even so, he finds it very hard to crack the industry. “It’s competitive. There’s little space for new talent, especially those who cannot afford to start out on their own. It’s difficult to get funding and loans, especially if you don’t have anything for surety.

But I hope that after getting my name out there and being commissioned to do more jewellery, I’ll be able to start my business. And when I’m successful, I plan to give back to other young jewellery designers, giving them workspaces.”

Who knew that weaving grass as a child could lead to a career in jewellery design?

“It just goes to show that no matter your background, if you know what you want in life, with hard work you can get it.” - Sunday Tribune

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