SEEING a gap in the
fast-growing category
of menswear, fashion
photographer Simon
Deiner and businessman
Ryan Beswick developed a platform
that is now responsible for
promoting menswear designers in
Africa.
Entering its fifth season,
the LEXUS SA Menswear Week
(Lexus SAMW AW’17) is the only
menswear-focused fashion week
on the continent.
Over the past four
seasons, we have had an opportunity
to witness some of the best in
menswear by both emerging and
established designers from around
Africa, some of whom have gone on
to gain international exposure.
Rich Mnis, Jenevieve Lyons,
Chu Suwannapha, Craig Jacobs,
Orange Culture and Laduma
Ngxokolo are now recognised
internationally.
My highlights include
the debut range of Chulaap by
Chu Suwannapha showcased
at season one. The styling,
design and the prints show
Suwannapha’s artistic aesthetic
and his love for the colourful
African continent.
Lukhanyo Mdingi’s
androgynous collection of dark
navy, blue and black made up of
sheer silk and denim separates
from season two remain fresh in
my mind. The range brought forth
the growing trend of gender-fluid
fashion.
The collaboration of Adriaan
Kuiters and Jod Paulsen (AKJP)
from season three showed that a
meeting of two creative minds can
lead to magic.
For Deiner, there have been
many highlights: “I remember the
first season where we did a team
photo at the end and there were
about 50 people involved. And when
we took the group photo at the SS17
collections last July we had just over
150 people in the pic.
“Other highlights have been
watching our young designers shine
and grow into proper household
names and along the way start
businesses. I have also enjoyed
seeing how men in general now
perceive the concept of wearing
locally made clothing as something
they are proud to do,” Deiner says.
A lot of
hard work and
dedication are
necessary for
a designer to
stand out from
a saturated
industry
competing
against cheap
imports and fast
fashion.
Funding,
production and
affordable and quality fabrics
are just some of the challenges that
our young designers are facing,
which play a hand in preventing
them from maintaining profitable
businesses.
Kim Gush, owner and designer
of Kim Gush apparel, adds: “I
think local consumers still love to
compare designers to big retailers,
especially where price is concerned.
We are still constantly faced
with the snub at our price tags…
consumers forget that the items
aren’t mass produced, therefore
you are receiving a unique piece.
And at the same time you are
supporting our local manufacturing
industry – which to be honest, needs
every tiny purchase to try to revive
it.
“Buying local means you
are helping in developing and
bringing our industry to those
‘international’ levels you so dearly
desire as well as keeping jobs
going,” she says.
“Take the time to get to know all
those brands you watch at fashion
week. A lot of people are just there
for the social, but they forget the
heart and soul that goes into every
garment presented, the dreams the
designers have for this industry to
flourish,” she says.
For Suwannapha, who will not
be showcasing at Lexus SAMW
AW’17, the fabrication and the
manufacturing are problematic.
“Hopefully, some of the courier
companies will work with fabrics
agencies towards bringing fabrics
to minimal costs, or I might have
to live with the high labour costs
as long as I’m producing in South
Africa,” he says.
“(This year) is all about
expanding and building my brand.
Collaboration will be a part of
my brand’s personality, which
will be coming soon and will be
available online in South Africa,”
Suwannapha says.
One of the youngest showcasing
designers, Mzukisi Mbane
of Imprint, adds: “When it comes
to fashion week, I think we all take
away what we want from it.“The
fashion week benefits should
always extend beyond the applause
after a runway show. For instance,
you get an opportunity to sell
yourself to a wide audience that
you wouldn’t
normally be
able to reach.
“After my
first runway
show, I got
invited to go
to Ghana then
Nigeria… I
was instantly
not just a South
African brand,
but a recognised
African
brand,”says
Mbane.
On what to
expect at his
showcase next week:
“The collection is
based on a fictional
character I created. It’s
an Ndebele man who
decided to leave home
and travel the world.
“The collection
includes a lot of
colour, oversized
silhouettes, genderfluid
pieces. Which is
truly the Imprint Afro
futuristic aesthetic…
it expresses a free spirit
which challenges made-up
perfection.
“As the collection is titled “I
couldn’t be bothered”, one will
take away whatever they want
from the collection… and that will
be okay,” he adds.
LEXUS SA Menswear
Week will take place at The
Palms in Woodstock on February 3
and 4.
Tickets are available at
www.webtickets.co.za.For a full
schedule see www.menswearweek.
co.za.