If you remain unconvinced that the prevailing fixation with gender fluidity in society is firmly rooted in the fashion world, Christopher Bailey can convince you.
The Burberry designer has long grappled with the inherent conservatism of the heritage brand while still providing fashionable updates each season – which will get the tills ringing for more than just chequer-lined raincoats. He’s something of a bellwether in British fashion, not least for the visibility of the brand with which he lets his ideas run wild.
Burberry menswear springsummer 2016 collection
And he has been known to run wild, incorporating bold signatures, including animal print, Hockney-esque primary colour palettes and even metallic finishes reminiscent of sweet wrappers – all style statements. But for spring-summer 2016, Bailey took things in a delicate direction, dubbing his collection “strait-laced”.
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He was actually referring to the abundance of that particular fabric rather than anything prim and proper. Lace in menswear is more progressive than priggish, thanks to the fact that it is seen as primarily a fabric for the fairer sex.
That’s an old-fashioned attitude though, says designer, Astrid Andersen, who has long been a proponent of the holey-stuff in collections that nevertheless virtually bristle with machismo. “Lace was originally created for men because embroidery was too feminine. “I find it interesting how our society and roles of gender have changed this in time,” says the Danish designer. “I always want to portray a look that reflects both the masculine and sensitive side of my man and playing on feminine fabrics has always been in my design identity.”
And when it comes to lace the designer knows her stuff, collaborating with Sophie Hallette, a French lace house established in 1887. “I work closely with Sophie Hallette to use only premium, precious materials,” says Andersen. “Lace is simply such a stunning material that I love working with it.
And every season I want to display this in new and interesting ways.” Andersen says the “emotional fragility” of the fabric chimes with the male muses she channels, but it’s admittedly not a fabric for everyone. “It’s daring,” says Darren Skey, head of menswear at Harvey Nichols. “Lace looked incredible on the catwalk, especially at Gucci where the bold colours and appliqué floral embellishments showcased the craftsmanship in the collection.
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But it may struggle to translate into commercial sales.” He should know: the London department store last week launched its new menswear department after nine months of refurbishment – proof of how important the male market is today. “Show pieces can be tricky to work into your everyday wardrobe,” says Skey.
“The key is to choose one statement item and ensure the rest of your look is pared back to compensate. When styling a lace shirt, I’d layer it with a plain T-shirt or vest.
An easier way to buy into the look is through sheer panelling and layering – a basic T-shirt with semi sheer details will look great with a pair of jeans for a daytime look.