FASHION models sporting all sorts of looks, from shaved heads to free-flowing surfer boy hair, will be seen on the Lexus SA Menswear Week (Lexus SAMW) runway starting this evening.
Designers are now using a combination of racially diverse, gender-neutral and transgender models in their campaigns as well as on the ramp.
This is a welcome change in an industry in which a point of controversy has been discrimination against certain ethnic groups and cultures. I spoke to Jen Deiner, a fashion show producer and the director of Group of Creates (GRP/cr8/), as well as the co-founder of Lexus SAMW, about model trends and what it takes to put together a fashion week.
Deiner is also responsible for producing and directing some of Africa's biggest runway shows, such as Swahili Fashion Week and Lagos Fashion and Design Week, as well as, internationally, Africa Fashion Week London.
Jen, what attracted you to the fashion world?
What I love the most about producing fashion is that I’m forced to continue to innovate in order to stay ahead of the curve, but it also allows for my love for structure in terms of putting together fashion weeks.
I love fashion and this was a natural path for me to follow where I get to combine my creative, workflow and passions in one job. Starting Group of Creatives was a desire to “do things better”, identifying where there were gaps across the continent, and how to do them better in terms of producing shows and fashion weeks.
You run one of the biggest fashion weeks around Africa and the world. It sounds very glamorous from the outside. What is it like on the inside?
It is hard work and long hours. There isn't too much glamour about putting together fashion weeks, especially with small teams and the ever-shrinking budgets. However, it is rewarding seeing designers grow their businesses, the pictures in magazines and even, months later, people wearing what went down the catwalk at one of your shows.
Fashion is very fast-paced and we're forced to stay abreast of technology, lighting, trends and what is happening non-stop in fashion across the world. Not to mention that politics, economic climates and the like affect certain shows.
What can we expect to see in terms of production at the upcoming season of the Lexus SA Menswear Week?
We are excited about moving into a new venue, the design-led space of The Palms in Woodstock. This has really allowed me to bring the elements of the older spaces I work in at London Fashion Week to Cape Town. Iron beams holding up the structure and what we are known for: clean, crisp shows that are all about the clothes without unnecessary theatrics.
The new space is heavy with 4K high- res LED walls, crisp lighting and on the event production side we have stepped up the game with Lexus as title sponsor, bringing more hospitality and experiential elements for the guests attending.
Can you describe what a typical modelling casting session is like, from start to finish?
Casting is about selecting the right look and pool of models from hundreds of hopefuls for designers to use to really showcase their collection's look and feel. So we send out a broadcasting notice and then all the models who're keen to walk at the fashion week come and cast. We then choose the best from these there's a lot of admin involved.
How do you decide which models to choose? Do you base your selection on look, personality or personal relationship?
It's all about two things, the look and the walk. How they walk can be improved on as we can always guide the models that struggle with their arm or facial expressions. Models that meet the minimum heights and measurements requirements are generally shortlisted. From there we work through the strongest, depending on what we want for the season or for the specific show, and create the necessary pools and book them for the shows.
Are you given direction from the designer/brand on what sort of model/s they are looking for?
Designers do get heavily involved but generally for a fashion week we create dedicated pools that offer a great selection of models for all designers to choose from.
Can you tell us a little about how the modelling scene has evolved over the years from when you started in the industry and are there certain categories or niche types of models who are in demand right now - and if so, why?
There’s always a certain look for each period. Even if you go back 50 years, you can see how depending on the times and the designers who are considered the “hot talent” of the time, and their model selections shape what happens for a season or two afterwards.
From nerdy, thin models to bearded men and muscular athletic boys, it's constantly evolving and it's interesting to see how it trickles down to the more mainstream campaigns or smaller markets who watch the bigger platforms globally.
Right now I’d say longer hair on boys, the beach boy look and the likes, is going to be a big look at Lexus SA Menswear Week this season.
What is the defining quality or feature of a model which makes you look twice?
There are just some models that have that unique look, and the way they carry themselves when walking really makes them stand out. Unique could be specific features, or really drop-dead gorgeous, but generally the models for ramp that walk well and have strong features are those which make us look twice. Generally these models will go on to shoot a lot of editorial, campaign and commercial work post fashion week because they are exposed to a lot of people who work in the industry who continually seek new faces.
Are there any famous models who you just knew would be successful right from the start?
For sure! I am proud to say that a lot of the new faces from our original SA Menswear Week have gone on to not only walk in top global shows but also shoot editorial and campaigns across the world for major brands and titles. This season we have picked some incredible faces that I’m sure in a few years will look back and realise everything started here!
What would you say is the biggest challenge facing the modelling industry at the moment?
The biggest challenge I would say is that there is more talent than ever before, so it's competitive and really hard for a lot of models to make a sustainable living in peak season to do this full time. Sure there has always been the struggling model but now so more than ever before. Further compounding this is that social media is now also considered a booking criteria for many brands based on the number of followers models have (this is a big thing we find in Europe when working there), and on top of this, rates continually fall in real terms.
Three attributes the fashion show producer should have?
You need to be able to listen to people and connect what you are hearing with workable solutions. Be punctual. Everything runs around time, for example an average fashion week has about 11 concurrent schedules for everything from lighting teams to models to backstage.
Lastly, smile through everything, there are moments one just wants to cry because it can be so stressful, but you need to be able to keep your team motivated with that smile and confidence.
Your advise to model hopefuls who would like to walk in the next season of the Lexus SAMW?
For those who meet the minimum criteria in terms of measurements and height, everything is possible. Keep an eye on the social media as we post casting calls a few weeks ahead of the model castings and from there work on joining a reputable model agency. Some people have the looks and not height for ramp, so it could work in other ways for you too.
LEXUS SA Menswear Week kicks-off this evening with an invite-only showcase. The Friday and Saturday shows will take place at The Palms in Woodstock.
Tickets are available at www.webtickets.co.za. For a full schedule see www.menswearweek. co.za.
Connect with them on Instagram: @samenswearweek