Awe-inspiring ‘Roof of Africa’

Published Feb 9, 2015

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Underberg – An almost eerie atmosphere descends over us as we zigzag our way into the clouds as if on a slow-moving heavenward-bound rollercoaster.

This breathtaking journey takes us to the top of Sani Pass, having wound our way to the so-called “Roof of Africa”, where we are able to survey a range of undulating mountain peaks that stretch as far as the eye can see.

At a dizzying height of nearly 3 000 metres above sea level, the winding route up to the summit of Sani Pass is understandably one of the most iconic mountain passes in the world, meandering over the Drakensberg escarpment and into Lesotho.

With plans in place to begin tarring the Sani Pass road from this year, the opportunity to complete this awe-inspiring route while it remains an exclusive 4x4 track is ever diminishing.

It’s what recently drew us to Underberg, a quaint farming town that also serves as the gateway to Sani Pass, which provides the only access from KwaZulu-Natal into the harsh highlands of the Lesotho mountain kingdom, home to the enduring Basotho people.

Courtesy of Sani Pass Tours, we were taken by 4x4 on an unforgettable six-hour excursion from one country to another, with the first vehicles having negotiated this treacherous route in the late 1940s when it was little more than a boulder-strewn donkey track.

Used then as a means to transport goods to either the isolated town of Mokhotlong in eastern Lesotho or into KwaZulu-Natal, Sani Pass has always served as an important trading route between South Africa and Lesotho.

However, the upgrade of the road more than 50 years ago turned the pass into a world-renowned tourist attraction. It can boast to being the highest road in Africa and one of the highest in the world.

And at the summit, one can quite literally “drink in” the surrounding scenery at the highest pub in Africa.

Besides the awe-inspiring views from start to finish, our trip also included a visit to a small Basotho village, where we were treated to piping hot home-made bread, and some uniquely flavoured local beer.

The Basotho have a unique African mountain culture, having adapted to live in the unforgiving and ever-changing conditions in the Lesotho highlands, where – as our guide suggested – there can be “four seasons in a day”.

While Sani Pass can be tackled by quad bike or motorcycle, there are also hiking trails to explore the mountains on foot, while it is a very popular mountain biking and trail running destination, with the Transfrontier MTB Epic and Sani Stagger taking place annually.

There are various places to stay in the southern Drakensberg for those looking to experience Sani Pass, but few come better than the aptly named Amazian Lodge, owned and run by Brent and Trudie Snyman.

Amazian Lodge also offers a very reasonably priced package in conjunction with Sani Pass Tours, and it was with Brent’s ringing endorsement that we set off on our journey.

“Sani Pass is South Africa’s best-kept secret,” he enthused. “It’s really spectacular, people travel from all over the world to go up Sani Pass, and sometimes I don’t think people really realise what a unique experience it is. For KwaZulu-Natal, it’s an absolute gem.”

And, although Sani Pass is undoubtedly a major drawcard, there is also plenty to do in the area, with a host of hiking trails providing a pathway to explore the Underberg mountains, while Amazian Lodge is also home to the “Wine Gallery of Africa”.

As Brent explained, the gallery offers a wide variety of unique wines and ports, which have been sourced from the smaller wine farms in the Cape. After a tasting, visitors can enjoy a meat and cheese platter with freshly baked bread and a bottle of wine, complemented by the surrounding mountain scenery.

Interestingly, Brent and Trudie closed their restaurant in Joburg some 10 years ago, opting instead to renovate a dilapidated farm and convert it into what has now become a widely popular four-star lodge.

“We just wanted to get out of the rat race I guess,” Brent mused. “The southern Drakensberg is an area with so much potential, and it’s still relatively untouched and unexplored.”

Overlooking the Umzimkulu River, Amazian Lodge is a secluded retreat aimed primarily at couples, and with a capacity of just seven rooms, you get the sense that catering for every whim of each guest is seen as a priority. And, while there’s nothing more relaxing than enjoying a spa massage treatment while the burbling Umzimkulu River provides a soothing backing track, there are also other more active excursions on offer, such as horse riding, tubing or quad biking.

However, the Sani Pass package is undoubtedly the major trump card, and considering that the road is soon to be tarred, it remains an off-road adventure that should be experienced sooner rather than later.

Saturday Star

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