We saw dinosaurs on the road to the mouth of the Breede River. Silvery-blue in the sunlight, they danced across the horizon and made their way down the hill. As they slowly approached, they turned from velociraptors into blue cranes.
Driving on the N2 which goes from Cape Town along the Garden Route to Port Elizabeth, we'd passed Swellendam and the Bontebok National Park on our right and then taken the road to Port Beaufort.
For most Gautengers, indeed, for most South Africans, this is unknown countryside.
On this part of the coastline is the quite magnificent De Hoop Nature and Marine Reserve, and, had we taken a right fork, we would have found ourselves in the village of Malgas, en route to the reserve. It's at Malgas that you cross the winding Breede River on the historic ferry.
Our destination, the Breede River Lodge situated at Port Beaufort. Look at a map to find it - it's sort of in between Mossel Bay and Cape Agulhas.
In past centuries, the Breede River was one of the main routes into the interior, and steamships bearing supplies of provisions and passengers used to offload them at Port Beaufort. From here, they'd board a smaller vessel and make their way up the river to Swellendam, Worcester and Ceres.
The countryside was open with rolling farmland and, as we approached the sea, there were pristine areas of veld with ancient milkwood trees, large and round, positioned in solitary splendour. One here, one there. Most strange.
We passed along the edge of the tiny seaside village of Witsand, and then, like the blue cranes, we crested a hill and came to the mouth of the Breede River.
Nobody had told us how beautiful it would be.
A brilliant blue estuary widened, creating golden sandbanks as the river met the sea. On either side, gentle hills curved upwards, and there, right at the edge, was a low, rustic-looking hotel, quite one of the most attractive buildings I'd seen for a long time.
We rolled into the parking lot and made our way into the reception area.
We were travelling as a family, with our son and daughter-in-law from Oxford as well as Bea, our three-month-old granddaughter, so we'd been sure to book at establishments that welcomed and were geared for children.
This hotel is not grand and glitzy, this is a "lodge at the sea" in the best sense of the word. Acquired by the dynamic Relais Hotel Group a few years ago, it had previously been an extremely rustic fishing-lodge type establishment.
Oh, I forgot to mention that this is one of the finest, if not THE finest fishing areas in South Africa - and that's for surf and deep-sea fishing.
Meanwhile, there we stood, an untidy family complete with chubby infant, and were welcomed like royalty.
The hotel is small, which means it's not difficult to get to know the entire staff within hours, Paul Garratt, the general manager, John Naude, Erika du Toit and Karien Ryneke welcomed us with small sherries and fruit juice. A nice touch.
Built right on the edge of the river, the views are spectacular.
Later, we learned from the old-timers, who'd been working here for ever, that when Relais took over the hotel, they'd rebuilt it keeping all its precious assets - the country cum fishing-village feel, the openness of the view, the wide stoeps.
They'd imaginatively knocked down walls, replacing them with glass so that guests would have uninterrupted views, rebuilt the bedrooms and turned a comfortable but run-down establishment into an unpretentious jewel.
It's a fact that people don't like change, but the locals in the area all heartily approve.
Across the river, we could see Cape Infanta and, to our left, the Breede flowed into San Sebastian Bay.
Accommodation is varied. Because we were a family, we'd booked a self-catering family unit, a sort of duplex flat with two spacious bedrooms en suite downstairs, and upstairs a large lounge, cum diningroom, cum kitchen. Best of all were the large patios and balconies, with that remarkable view.
So comfortable and so well appointed was the accommodation, and so tastefully understated the decor, with fresh flowers, old polished golden wood and sink-into couches, I could have collapsed with a glass of wine and a good book.
But our exuberant family, refugees from freezing Oxford, wanted to explore, so we did. We'd arrived in the late afternoon, which meant there was time for a short walk around to check out the surroundings and then dinner.
Because I was in holiday mode, the thought of self-catering was abandoned and we strolled to the diningroom at the edge of the harbour.
What a happy room. Large, high-beamed, with small tables and white and blue-checked cloths. Old candelabras with candles flamed over the large terracotta flagstone floor. Above,Victorian fans circled lazily around.
Now, this part of the world, naturally, is known for its seafood ("you eat what you catches," as the saying goes). There's an à la carte menu, but we chose the set menu for R80. I don't usually go into detail about food, but my stomach, and all the others present, will remember this dinner for ever.
The soup was the best bouillabaisse I have ever eaten, and that includes many savoured in legendary bouillabaisse French fishing ports such as Nice and Marseilles. Chef Katrina Micheals has worked at the hotel (in its old and reincarnated form) for 20 years, and my God, she can cook up a storm.
The starter was crumbed mussels (picked off the rocks just before the meal) with homemade garlic mayonnaise and the main course a choice of grilled line fish, a tomato lamb bredie or grilled chicken filled with lemon and herbs.
I'm going into detail, because you have to remember, this entire sumptuous feast cost only R80.
The others chose the fish while I went for the bredie. It was wondiferous and my nose still quivers at the thought.
Dessert was malva pudding or icecream and chocolate sauce (this is South Africa, after all), finished by GOOD coffee.
Another pleasant part of the meal was chatting to locals Leon Daniel and Yasmine Fielies, who've also seen and enjoyed the changes.
That night, my stomach and I fell asleep to the sound of the sea and my granddaughter.
Next day, after Katrina's home-made breakfast, we rolled ourselves onto one of the hotel's boats and Kosie Erasmus, harbour master and fisherman supreme, took us cruising up the river.
Kosie is himself remarkable, a third-generation fisherman. He, his father and his grandfather are oyster-pickers (today, he doesn't practise his craft as he's still waiting for his licence to be issued).
There are not many oyster-pickers left in South Africa, and hearing Kosie's tales of fish, oysters and men was, itself, an experience. Oyster-pickers, in case you don't know, are an endangered species, a part of South African tradition - they really should be treasured.
He knew each fish, each rock, each bird, each plant - and it was the tales of whales that thrilled for this is a prime whale-watching area.
A few months before, in the season, lucky guests had been able to watch as many as 70 southern rights and humpbacks breaching and frolicking in San Sebastian Bay.
"It happens every year," said Kosie, "they're sommer part of the scenery."
Later, he took us out into the bay and dropped us on one of the white sand beaches. You don't have to be a brain surgeon to know why the village here is called Witsand. There are long sandy stretches for swimming, and equally long rocky ledges further along, on which locals (and visitors) fish for large giant cob, spotted grunter, steenbras and garrick. This is fishing heaven.
If you're lucky, you'll spot otters. We didn't, but what we did find were pumpkin shells and sand dollars.
Later, we explored the small village of Witsand. The whole area is a part of our heritage.
The lodge gives you a shortened history lesson (in its brochure) and it's worth repeating.
In 1817, Captain Benjamin Moody arrived at the Cape bringing 200 Scots immigrants with him. In 1819, Joseph Barry secured the tender to supply rations to the drought-stricken inland Overberg.
Originally, the trek was by ox wagon, then Barry acquired steamships, first the Kadie (wrecked in 1856 at the mouth of the Breede - the wreck's still there) and then others.
Witsand is still full of Barry descendants (the old and picturesque church is the Barry Church) and apparently old Mrs Barry (at the age of 80-something) can still fish the pants off most fishermen bringing in huge giants.
We only stayed at the Breede River Lodge for two days as we were heading for the Karoo.
This is an ideal stop-over place, but actually, it's somewhere to come and enjoy a real holiday. We didn't get to do any water sports, fish, sail, dive, hike - do all the things you can if you have time. We didn't even manage to cross the river to pop into De Hoop to visit the bontebok. No matter, we'll be back.
All I can say is that I cannot believe that it's taken me so long to find this unique and very special place. In the course of my job, I've been lucky to travel a fair amount - this is a highlight memory.
For further information give the hotel a ring on 028-537-1631, or phone central reservations on 0800-600-889.