There was no hooting or road rage when we got caught in a traffic jam. After all, we were out in big-sky country and the obstacle was a herd of white rhino.
Four game-viewing vehicles had stopped to wait for the four rhino to move off the road.
It was a perfect photo opportunity, and we were to have many more at Welgevonden, which is virtually unsurpassed in Big Five sightings and is, to boot, malaria-free.
It is less than 300km north of Joburg, a drive of about three hours. There's a bumpy, pot-holed section of the road between Modimolle (Nylstroom) and Vaalwater, but from there to the reserve's main gate on the R510 we just needed to watch out for cattle moving across the road. Welgevonden is also accessible by charter aircraft and helicopter.
As no private cars are allowed on the reserve, we were picked up at the gate by a guide, Jonas Phago. He was kind enough to stop often for game viewing and photography, so it took almost two hours to arrive at the Ekuthuleni Lodge in the centre of the reserve.
Jonas, who has been at Welgevonden for 13 years, was a mine of information, naming bird, mammal and tree species on request.
The lodge is set against a hilly backdrop, with a watering hole about 100m away on a grassy plain. It also has a sunken open-air boma and braai area.
On our arrival, we were greeted by the entire staff complement of seven - that's the maximum allowed to each concession, so everyone multitasks. Jonas was to act also as barman, head waiter and wine steward.
When lunch was served - blackened chicken breast salad with potato wedges, presented enthusiastically by chef Selby Ledwaba - we knew that we were in for a weekend of pampering.
On the evening game drive, besides coming across the rhino, we had a close encounter with an extremely large bull elephant which mock-charged our vehicle, head rolling and ears flapping; a truly awesome beast.
On returning to camp, we were welcomed with a sherry, then unwound with drinks on the deck.
At about 10pm we enjoyed a three-course meal, the most memorable part of which was a spicy Moroccan soup. Then we retired to our chalet.
After the morning game drive the next day, we were transported to the Makweti Lodge in the north, situated in the Makweti Gorge and surrounded by giant euphorbia trees. Again we were greeted by the entire staff.
Our private suite had a Victorian bath, its own viewing deck overlooking a river and its own private splash pool. Other extras included bathrobes and bedroom slippers, a fully stocked bar fridge, fruit bowl, cookies with coffee and tea and, naturally, a chocolate on the pillow.
The Indaba lounge near the lodge's main entrance is eye-level with a watering hole at which zebra, impala, warthog and giraffe often drink
Run by husband and wife team Jacques and Marieza van Wyk, Makweti is, in fact, a dual concession and so employs more than seven staff and has two game viewing vehicles, which means good personalised service.
At lunch, we had vegetarian lasagne with a Greek salad and the best lemon meringue I've tasted.
The guests at Makweti included three couples - from the US, Germany and Holland. Conversation at the supper table centred on the game drives and the various sightings, as well as the beauty of the Waterberg.
The drive on our second evening started off perfectly. As we were about to leave the lodge, there, in front of us, a mere 50m away, a giraffe bull browsed nonchalantly, grasping top-most leaves with a long purple tongue. He was probably making his way to the waterhole at the front of the lodge.
As our vehicle continued on the gravel roads traversing much of the Welgevonden's 36 000 hectares, we had news over the radio of a special photo opportunity. We made our way to the appointed spot, stopping along the way to photograph a kudu bull which obliged by turning to show its regal head crowned with spiralling horns.
We rounded a bend and came across a pride of lions - a matriarch, two adult males with full dark manes, a two-year-old male sporting a stubbly mane and two year-old cubs.
Restless, the cubs nudged and prodded at the rest of the pride, trying to get a response. Then they headed in our direction, followed closely by the adult female and then by the males.
We held our breaths and moved to the centre of the vehicle, as they sauntered by, agonisingly close, flicking glances in our direction.
The pride had moved barely 200m before lying down in the road to rest. The cubs continued to prowl restlessly, occasionally sniffing the air as if trying to pick up the scent of prey.
As dusk closed in, we watched five of the pride move off up the hill and disappear into the bush about 100m away. The other game-viewing vehicles left, but our guide, Jacques van Wyk, decided to linger.
We sat quietly in the approaching darkness listening to the orchestra of sounds and watching the lone male rolling in the long grass nearby.
Suddenly he stood up, assumed a stalking position and moved forward. After what seemed an eternity, and having advanced a mere 30m towards a thicket, he sprang forward. A squeal, a roar, more squeals, then silence. A warthog had become a lion snack.
The next day we moved to the Shibula Lodge and Bush Spa in the central part of Welgevonden, a drive that took at least 45 minutes.
We were greeted by the entire staff including manager Carl Vorster, who welcomed us with a chilled cocktail.
Shibula is sited near a gorge from which a steep cliff ascends. Its watering hole, 50m from the viewing deck, is frequented mainly by waterbuck. It also has a huge boma and braai area.
Our accommodation at this five-star lodge was the presidential suite, which consists of two rooms, a lounge with a fully stocked bar fridge and satellite TV and a spa bath and two showers, one inside and one out.
Established in 1993, the reserve borders the Marakele National Park on the Waterberg plateau in Limpopo.
Conservation manager Dave Powrie is extremely passionate about all the programmes in place, including those dealing with elephant contraception (to manage numbers), leopard research, monitoring of blue crane breeding and grassland management.
Welgevonden has 16 privately owned commercial lodges. They are sited and built in such a way that they almost merge with the landscape. With thatched roofs and wooden decks, some are constructed from rock hewn from the area. Stone pathways lead to the individual chalets.
Each lodge has its own ambience. There are lodges to suit honeymooners, couples without children and families. There are also two self-catering lodges, with guided drives optional.
All have a main viewing deck overlooking a watering hole. One can relax with a glass of wine on the deck while taking in the sounds of the bush and viewing the game.
The rooms and chalets are stylishly furnished and have fine linens and luxury pamper products. Most rooms have an outside shower as well.
The service is almost faultless and, as the lodges are individually managed and operated, very personal.
The cuisine is of gourmet quality - three scrumptious meals a day.
All the lodges have qualified rangers, well-maintained game-viewing vehicles and twice-daily game drives. There is ample opportunity to view the wildlife and survey the natural beauty that is the Waterberg.
Welgevonden Private Game Reserve satisfies all the expectations of a true African safari. To spend one night at each lodge (Ekuthuleni, Makweti and Shibula) over an extended weekend serves only to whet one's appetite for a return visit.
- For more info on Welgevonden, visit www.welgevonden.org