Fly with the changes and call it Mbombela or stick with "Nellies"? This is the dilemma facing local residents of the city formerly known as Nelspruit.
Either way, for the visitor it provides an ideal base for a multitude of day trips in the region.
Go green in the Lowveld National Botanical Gardens: For my wife's last birthday some friends took over the planning of her special day and told us to meet them at the Lowveld National Botanical Gardens on the Sunday morning of her birthday. We met them in the parking lot, where they unloaded enough food to stock a small delicatessen, and we entered the cool, spacious gardens. With arms tiring we found a quiet spot on the lawns in the shade of a stand of indigenous trees and set out a feast of pâté, cold meats and salami, fine cheeses, crackers and, of course, the compulsory champagne and orange juice.
The noise of traffic on the R40 was just a background hum (most other folks were on their way to the mall for their Sunday breakfast) and the peace and tranquillity of the gardens suited us perfectly. It's a wonder that we don't do picnics in the gardens more often. They're very easy to get to, and only cost around R20 per adult in entrance fees. There are the spectacular falls on the Crocodile River, which are like a mini-Augrabies when in flood, and the cataracts on the Nels River, the two rivers joining on the garden's border. There's a wonderful aerial boardwalk that takes you through the forest along the banks of the Crocodile River at bird's eye level.
For those who don't want to lug a picnic basket around there's the newly reopened restaurant, Kuzuri.
- Lowveld National Botanical Garden, Nelspruit, off White River Road (Value Mart intersection), Tel 013 752 5531, www.sanbi.org.
Directions: take the R40 through town and towards White River and after crossing the Crocodile River take the first right at the traffic lights and turn right at the first traffic circle. The gardens are straight ahead. There are two entrances: the restaurant entrance is to the left, while the nursery entrance is to the right and over the bridge.
Relatives at the Jane Goodall Institute Chimpanzee Eden: Ever since moving to Nelspruit I've been dying to visit the Jane Goodall Institute Chimpanzee Eden. Chimps, being so similar to humans, hold a special appeal to people that simply isn't there with other species save dogs, elephants and dolphins.
None of us were left untouched by our experience and I found it to be one laden with different emotions. There was the pure joy of simply watching them, especially the youngsters who behave in such familiar ways, for example rolling head-over-heels down a grassy slope, exactly as children would do. Then I felt intense sadness when thinking about the plight of these creatures in the wild - adults shot for bushmeat and the babies sold into captivity. And finally I felt respect for Eugene Cussons and the institute for their commendable efforts at rescuing chimps from terrible conditions of captivity from as far afield as Angola and the Sudan.
We joined the 10am tour, which coincided with feeding time, a surprisingly orderly affair with access to the food working on a hierarchical basis, though our guide did her level best to make sure all individuals got their share. After the 90-minute tour we had a cup of coffee in the restaurant and discussed our experience in detail, which even my dear but forthright mother enjoyed tremendously. And the R110 entrance fee we paid per person went towards chimp rescue operations, so we felt especially good about our morning.
Please note, however, that although you can get close to the animals it is not a hands-on experience, and there is no direct contact with the chimps. They are big, powerful animals as adults and for many good reasons chimps and visitors are separated by sturdy fences.
- Chimpanzee Eden/Umhloti Nature Reserve: Tel 013 745 7406,|e-mail [email protected]; www.chimpeden.com/www.janegoodall.co.za
Directions: Take the R40 towards Barberton and look for the signs to the centre about 12km out of town on your left. The centre is about 5km from the turn-off.
Defy gravity on the Hazyview Skyways Trail: I wouldn't really describe myself as an adrenaline junkie, but on the other hand sometimes it's nice to put your life into someone else's hands, as long as they're trained professionals.
So when I felt like something a bit more risky than a picnic in the gardens we headed off to Hazyview, one of the adventure centres of Mpumalanga. We drove on to Gecko Lodge and met our intrepid guides Given Marimane and Godwill Marimi for the Hazyview Skyways experience.
This is an aerial cableway, such as can be found in many other parts of the country, but has the distinction of apparently being the longest in Africa at 1.2km. At the lodge we were kitted out with all manner of harnesses and clips and given a quick training run before being driven up into the hills overlooking the Sabie River valley. It is not a scary experience, and once you've done one section you begin to enjoy the sensation of speed and the bird's eye view of everything. There's not much you have to do but hang on and enjoy the ride. In fact the tour is open to everyone under 120kg, and even older children and disabled people are able to do it.
- Skyway Trails bookings on 082 825 0209; e-mail [email protected]; www.skywaytrails.com. Gecko Lodge, Tel 013 737 8374; www.geckolodge.net
Directions: take the R40 to Hazyview, and after Perry's Bridge turn left onto the Sabie Road (R536). Gecko Lodge is a few kilometres further on the right hand side.
Seek the sights of the Panorama Route: Sabie, Graskop, Pilgrim's Rest and the Blyde River Canyon: One of the things I like about Nelspruit is the diversity of landscapes within easy reach: turn right and you enter the savannah, turn left and you find yourself winding up into the mountains. It is in these mountains, which are part of the Drakensberg escarpment, that one finds the Panorama Route.
It incorporates the small forestry and historical mining towns of Graskop, Sabie and Pilgrim's Rest, as well as a host of natural and historical wonders.
From Nelspruit we usually head along the R37 to Sabie, where we have breakfast with the bikers at The Woodsman. After that there's Mac Mac Falls, pancakes at Harry's in Graskop, and then Lisbon Falls, God's Window (though if God's Window is crowded I stick to Wonder View, which delivers quality views without the crowds), Bourke's Luck Potholes and the Three Rondavels view site before heading back to Nelspruit via White River, all easily doable in day.
Of course there are lots of permutations to the route you can take.
Directions: Take the R40 to White River and after crossing the Crocodile River turn left at the traffic lights onto the R37. After that the route is up to you.
Get prehistoric at the Sudwala Caves: As a young boy I was mad about dinosaurs. I could pronounce with ease the names that would have even the grown-ups stumbling. So it was not surprising that one of my favourite holiday destinations was the Sudwala Caves and Dinosaur Park.
In those days it was a long trek from Joburg to get there, all of four hours or so, but living in Nelspruit means that the caves are on my doorstep.
On a recent visit I was pleasantly surprised to see that the massive dinosaur sculptures are still in very good condition. The collection includes a whole range of species, from the more primitive Dimetrodon to Diplodocus, the longest of all, and of course Tyrannosaurus rex, every young boy's favourite. The caves are the other main attraction. Children and the disabled people are able to do it.
- For enquiries and bookings Tel 083 446 0228 or 013 733 4152, www.sudwalacaves.co.za
Directions: The caves are 36km out of town. Take the N4 towards Joburg then the R539 to Sabie. The caves are a further eight kilometres down the road (after the Sabie turn-off).
Sail away on local dams: Kwena, Witklip and Klipkopje dams: As if I didn't have enough to keep myself busy on weekends there is plenty of opportunity to indulge in my passion for fly fishing. Kwena, Witklip, De Gama and Klipkopje Dams are all within easy reach of Nelspruit and offer good bass fishing, as well as plenty to keep my non-fishing friends busy.
One of our favourites is Witklip Dam, located on the R537 between White River and Sabie. It's for non-motorised craft only, so offers the peace and tranquillity we like.
Those who are into power boats and jet skis would prefer one of the other dams, as would the long-rodded carp fishermen who seem to drink more than they fish (Kwena Dam near Lydenberg, with its shallow bays, is more suited to carp). There's also a small dam on the way to Kaapsehoop that is supposed to be perfect for small-mouthed bass, but until I've caught some trophy specimens there I'm not giving away its location.
Directions: Witklip Dam is not far off the R537 between White River and Sabie, down a signposted dirt road to the left. Kwena Dam is off the R36 between Mashishing/Lydenberg and the Schoeman's Kloof Road. De Gama and Klipkopje Dams are off the R40 between White River and Hazyview.