The reward for not thundering down the highway on a direct route from A to B is insight into the platteland towns which are such an integral part of the tapestry of South Africa.
Recently we spent three days in Burgersdorp, immersing ourselves in the ethos of the place.
We stayed at The Nook, a pleasant bed and breakfast run by artist Anita Joubert in the middle of the town, which proved great value for money. Each evening, as storm clouds rolled in, we sat on a bench in the tiny garden and reviewed the day's activities.
It was also a good time to read up on the history of the town... before the storm broke furiously and raindrops pelted the tin roof.
I learned that Burgersdorp began life in 1846 when farmers in the area petitioned the Graaff-Reinet Dutch Reformed Church council, asking for a town with a church in their area, to avoid the long journey to Graaff-Reinet, Cradock or Colesberg to attend a church service.
The town was named Burgersdorp in honour of the burgers (farmers) who wanted Christianity in their area, and nine streets, two squares and a church plain were marked off by oxen pulling a plough.
Ten national monuments add to the sense of place. One of these once housed the theological seminary of the Reformed Church, which was founded in 1869. Many of this church's ministers received their training there until the school moved to Potchefstroom in 1905.
The adjoining parsonage, built in 1898, now serves as the main building of the cultural historical museum complex, which includes the out-building which once served as a lecture room for the seminary. One of its most famous students was the poet Totius.
Coetsee House and De Bruin House also give one insight into typical old Karoo dwellings. Buitendach House, built in 1846, is the oldest building in the town.
One of my favourite spots was the charming Hagenhuis restaurant/coffee shop. Stepping inside transported me to another era as I dined beneath the vines at sturdy old tables. Antiques dotted about added to the atmosphere.
The blockhouse, dating back to the Anglo-Boer War, high on the hill, provides great views of the town. It was declared a national monument in 1946. Another blockhouse has been restored and is used by members of the Round Table for their meetings.
A walk on another hill was a great viewpoint for the town's two magnificent churches: the Dutch Reformed Church, where the Rev John Murray was the first minister, and the Gothic-style Reformed Church. Viewed from the right angle, the two buildings and two elegant spires make an effective backdrop for each other.
Yet another steep hill walk opens up incredible rolling vistas, with not a house in sight and total silence, except for the birds.
The old gaol, too, is a national monument. One of the Cape rebels during the Anglo-Boer War, Piet Kloppers, was executed here.
On a more musical note, the pedal organ, purchased in 1890, in the Anglican Christ Church (yet another national monument) is still in use.
I found the "Taal" monument, erected in 1893 to commemorate the acceptance of Dutch into the Cape parliament, evocative. It was constructed in Italy, from Carrara marble, and the daughter of a local politician was used as a model. British troops damaged it and removed it in 1901, but the British government agreed to replace it. Eventually the original was discovered, without its head, in King William's Town in 1939. Both now stand in Burger Square: one with and one without a head.
In another corner of the square a fine example of Victorian craftsmanship is found in the intricate Jubilee Fountain. Only four of these fountains were manufactured in Scotland and Burgersdorp is home to one of the two in South Africa - yet another national monument.
The Nook is just down the road from the primary and senior schools and one thing that struck me was how many of the children - obviously on school excursions - walked barefoot. It was a sign not of poverty, but a relaxed way of life which long ago disappeared in the frenetic rat race.
- The Nook: 051 653 1318 or 082 620 4758.