East London - Drivers taking the road from Graaff- Reinet to either Beaufort West or Willowmore usually ignore the small town of Aberdeen, located just a stone’s throw from the national road. It’s a pity, because it’s charming.
Part of its character stems from the fact that many of its roads are untarred, which does not mean they are in a poor state of repair: quite the contrary.
Aberdeen is one of the architectural conservation areas of the Karoo, with wonderful vistas across the veld to the Camdeboo Mountains in the north. When these are draped in a mantle of snow, it can be quite spectacular.
In 1856, the town was laid out as a settlement of the Dutch Reformed Church on the farm Brakkefontein, and named after Aberdeen in Scotland, where the Reverend Andrew Murray (who was born in Graaff-Reinet) completed his religious studies.
In the olden days the Dutch Reformed Church, with its tapering church spire, was the focal point of all country towns, and this is still the case in many rural areas to this day. Aberdeen is no exception. The church, located in the heart of the town, is completely circled by a wide tarred road. Other roads radiate off this like arteries, as though the elegant church spire is the pulse that gives life.
The fact that development has mainly passed the town means there is a fascinating historical building at every turn. Spacious Victorian houses snooze in the heat of the day. Arriving early in the morning, I found some of the town’s inhabitants taking a stroll before the sun sapped their energy. One thought I was lost – perhaps an indication that not too many people leave the national road to drop in here for a cup of coffee.
That said, the Kamdebo Stall, beside the national road, is usually a hive of activity. They offer some unusual homestyle items in bottles and I came away armed with an array of tasty treats.
To give some indication of Aberdeen’s pedigree, cast your eyes over some of these dates: The Homestead, 1820; Pagel House B&B, 1897; the Magistrate’s Court, 1898; Villeria Guest House, 1899. All are immaculate and decorative – as was the fashion of those days.
Had I been stopping, I would have been hard pressed to decide which one to check into for the night. Interestingly, Pagel House’s original owner, Frank Wilke, apparently established a private zoo in the town, and also named his house after circus legend Friedrich Pagel.
Strolling the streets of the town, it was easy to imagine Victorian ladies in crinoline gowns, and sheltered by parasols, being escorted by gentlemen in top hats, all nodding politely to one another.
l Contacts:
The Homestead 049 846 0612
Pagel House 072 170 3914
Villeria Guest House 049 846 0389
Sunday Tribune