It is so peaceful that it feels surreal, a haven of quiet tucked away from the busy world.
Hogsback, just north of King William's Town in the Amatola Mountains, gets its name from three ridges, topped by strips of rock that look like the hard hair on a hog's back. They are named Hog One, Hog Two and Hog Three.
The mountain is loveliest in autumn and spring. In autumn, falling leaves are golden, orange, rusty or deep red. They look spectacular on the trees and the ground. There are crunchy carpets of leaves everywhere and many postcard-perfect photo opportunities.
Also, in autumn it's not too cold, but cool enough for a blazing fire at night. There is plenty of accommodation to choose from and good news for visitors is that most of Hogsback's main road was tarred last year. Trees and hikers are no longer covered in brown clouds of dust thrown up by cars.
Hogsback has a garden club and offers guided tours and self-guided visits. Spring is the best time for this. There are a number of lovely gardens to visit on the mountain. The village is holding a Spring Festival on the weekend of September 25 to 27, with plants for sale, activities and craft and food stalls.
Hogsback air is fresh and bracing. While there, you are guaranteed a raging appetite and to sleep well at night. It's something to do with the altitude and the walking. And you simply have to walk. There are walks to suit everyone, from short excursions to long tramps along winding cliff edges. There are trail maps available, and most walks are marked with little hogs painted on rocks or trees to show you the way. The scenery alone will lift your spirits.
On long weekends, the mountain can be pretty busy. Also, at the first sign of a good snowfall it attracts snow seekers from Grahamstown, Port Elizabeth and East London. But apart from these times and school holidays, it's peaceful.
There is plenty of self-catering and guesthouse accommodation. These establishments are well equipped, with heaters and fireplaces to keep you cosy in winter.
But more about what makes Hogsback so special ...
- The trees - vast, towering yellowwoods and other indigenous species. Even the oaks, pines and other exotic varieties are awe-inspiring.
- Creepers, the undergrowth and the general "wilderness feel".
- Interesting toadstools, bright orange-coloured fungi leeching off fallen trees. Intricate lichen and moss. Amazing textures in tree bark.
- Pretty waterfalls and streams.
- The fact that you can often finish a hike without seeing another soul. You feel as if you have the mountain to yourself.
- Squelching through mud after rain or shuffling through a sea of brittle leaves.
- A leaf kaleidoscope on the trees.
- Driving through arbours of golden-leaved branches that curve and meet to form a canopy above.
- Monkeys leaping about from branch to branch. A band of lazing baboons, their barking echoing across the valleys.
- Orchards laden with fruit.
You'll have so many wonderful moments.
There are interesting people in Hogsback: academics, artists, bohemian types, the environmentally conscious, people with esoteric leanings.
The locals are friendly and have time to stop and chat. People are warm, they tend to kuier and there is a strong sense of community.
It always feels less hurried than anywhere else - less so even than coastal villages.
There is a Buddhist shrine, and also an Eco-Shrine built by an artist at The Edge, a self-catering accommodation and conferencing venue. Here you can also stroll along a long labyrinth - to become "peaceful and centred".
Apparently there is also a strong Christian community in Hogsback. St Patricks on the Hill is a quaint rondavel church built in the 1930s. The village has become a popular venue for weddings because of this sweet chapel and the beautiful scenery which makes an excellent backdrop for photographs.
There is a legend that author JRR Tolkien, who wrote The Hobbit and Lord of the Rings, based his books on Hogsback, and some of the establishments in the village take their names from these books, but apparently this is pure fable. Tolkien was born in Bloemfontein and is said to have left South Africa while still a toddler. Some accounts say he visited Hogsback while very young; others say that he never returned to South Africa.
One would think the magnificence of the mountains and forest is satisfying enough without adding hobbits, fairies or goblins to the mix.
This hocus-pocus, with people trying to imbue the wonder of Hogsback with some sort of magical quality, using terms such as "fairyland", "mystical" and "enchanting", could represent an inability to grapple with a place of amazing natural beauty.
An area with so many species of plant life in such density and with an abundance of pure, flowing water is bound to be energising. People experience Hogsback as a healing environment. You are sure to leave feeling rejuvenated, and restored - whatever it is you are seeking.
A sad aspect of the area is the evident poverty and unemployment. There are many people sitting idle on the main road and gathered outside the bottle stores. Alcoholism seems to be a problem, with drinkers staggering along the main road at night.
If only there could be some kind of craft manufacturing or agricultural initiative to offer employment. Or what about a big jam-making project - using the fruits from all those overladen trees?
Employment in the village is limited to domestic work, gardening and working for the accommodation establishments.
Some people make little hogs from red clay, and walking sticks, to sell along the road, but this can hardly bring in much income.
PLACES TO STAY
This is a short selection: there are more hotels and self-catering cottages and generally they are all of a good standard. Many of them can be found by doing a "Hogsback" internet search.
- Maylodge Country Cottages
Self-catering chalets under trees in a large garden estate are far apart from each other, ensuring privacy. Warm, friendly service. Chalets vary in size and go from R400 per night for a chalet that sleeps two to R1 320 per night for one that sleeps eight. Call 045 962 1016.
- The Arminel Hotel and Self-Catering
The rates are R395 per person sharing per night in low season, R450 in mid season and R650 in high season. This includes dinner, bed and breakfast.
Its self-catering chalets sleep six and are R750 for two people and R150 per person thereafter. Call 045 962 1005.
- Nutwoods Park Guesthouse and Self-Catering
A guesthouse in a beautiful garden setting, with old worlde charm. Believed to be the site of the original Hogsback school, it has a large mounted bell on the grounds. Communal areas are decorated with the many antiques and knick-knacks collected by the owners, and guestrooms are decorated with beautiful furniture and lush drapes. The B&B rate is R320 per person, R490 if you add on the five-star dinner.
The self-catering cottage that sleeps two is R495 a night; the six sleeper is R495 for four people and R695 for six people. Call 045 962 1043.
- Granny Mouse House Guesthouse and Self-Catering
Don't let the folksy name mislead you - this is AA Quality Assured Superior Accommodation. And it gets four stars from the Tourism Grading Council. The B&B rate is R355, R475 with dinner.
The self-catering rate ranges from R175 to R225 per person sharing, depending on the cottage chosen. Call 045 962 1259.
- There are also some stand-alone cottages in the village for hire. These include: Ilifu, with beautiful mountain views; Maple Grove, which has an African feel and a forest setting; and Nibilheim, a wooden cottage on stilts recommended for bird watching. These cottages sleep two to four people and the rate starts from R200 per person per night. Call 045 962 245.
RESTAURANTS
The restaurants are close to each other in the village so you can pop in during the day to see if you like them and book your table for the evening.
- The Hogsback Inn:
Enjoy a drink at the crackling fire in this cosy English-style pub, which offers a varied menu from burgers and steaks to Moroccan lamb and oxtail.
- Tea Thyme restaurant at The Edge Mountain Retreat: Excellent for scones or cakes in the afternoon. If you're looking for beautifully prepared dishes, this is the place for you. The venue is an elegant dining area with original oil paintings and eclectic decor and furniture.
See www.theedge-hogsback.co.za
- Nina's:
A pizzeria with bread, jams and other goodies for sale. A relaxed atmosphere. Good for breakfast and lunch.
- Woodlands Coffee Shop:
This coffee shop, which opens at night, offers a range of meals from schwarmas and steaks to Thai dishes. It's very small and cosy, with a fireplace.
- The Candle Factory:
Besides buying candles here, you can enjoy tea and delicious chocolate cake in this rustic setting - a wooden barn.
SHOPPING
Buy handmade clay hogs; walking sticks; candles; pottery from Starways; wrought iron candle holders from Wrought and Rustic; and Mistyfell jams made on a smallholding from the berries it grows.