Knysna hit the headlines some time in the 1700s. Word had it that of all the great timber extraction towns around, Knysna was probably the best. And then some of the lucky lumberjacks began finding gold nuggets in their part-time sifting pans. News spread like wildfire and Knysna sprung up overnight.
The town is still buzzing with creative energy and what sets it apart from many other seasonal holiday destinations are its unique people and the fact that there’s loads to do in winter.
Next month the famous Knysna Oyster Festival draws musicians, foodies, wine enthusiasts and many more looking to join in the festivities.
So check into one of Greenwood Guide’s wonderful places to stay, shuck some oysters, sail to the heads, drink some bubbly, stand in awe before an ancient yellowwood giant… you might even bump into one of the mystical forest’s mythical elephants.
191 Nirvana
191 Rheenendal Road, Rheenendal, Knysna
Tel: 044 386 0297
Who would have thought you could make a couple of self-catering cottages out of two water reservoirs? Evidently, Madi Butler did. (First you have to empty out the water, of course).
Her two circular, thatched properties stand proudly on the top of the hill. The position, at the hub of panoramic views that stretch from the end of the Outeniqua Mountains across Knysna Lagoon to the surrounding forest, was just too good to waste. You won’t know where to gaze first.
This is one self-catering place where you can be fully independent, yet still have the reassuring presence of a friendly hostess.
On top of all the added extras you require (Madi supplies beautiful white bed linen, towels, firewood and titbits such as organic salad), a basket of home-grown herbs and veggies will find its way to your doorstep each morning.
The indoor fireplace doubles as a braai area that becomes virtually outdoors when you “roll up” the walls (made of canvas blinds) at the front of the cottage. I assure you it’s possible – come and see for yourself.
Teniqua Treetops
Foothills of Outeniqua Mountains, Between Knysna and Sedgefield
Tel: 044 356 2868
This really is different. Letting you think of Teniqua Treetops as a handful of treehouses would be like dismissing the Sistine Chapel as a handful of murals. Descriptions and photos won’t do it justice. You could call Viv and ask him about his handiwork, but you’d still need to see it.
Robyn gave me a tour, pointing out how eco-friendly they are here: dry-composting toilets, rainwater harvesting, low-energy everything. I saw eight treehouses set deep in the forest canopy created in natural gaps left by carefully extracting non-indigenous trees.
Outdoor braais, chill zones, tented double beds and electric blankets are the norm. Showers, worktops and bedside tables are carved from reclaimed yellowwood, while the four honeymoon suites are pampering with lavish corner baths. Privacy, here, goes without saying. Seats, decks and turrets have been positioned to make the most of views. Majestic yellowwoods stretch above the rest of the forest canopy, which plunges into the 160m-deep gorge of the Karatara River. Trails allow serious hiking. A wonderful, romantic and tranquil hideout. Go visit.
Bamboo Guesthouse
7-9 Bolton Street, Hunters Home, Knysna
Tel: 044 384 0937
I had to call three times for directions, but Jaynie finally got through to me with, “and if you don’t make it this time you forgo the bottle of red under your pillow”. Moments later I arrived.
All around me wooden slatted walkways divided and ordered a jungle of plants and fountains, a pool, a pond and a boma.
Jaynie and Gordon have transformed an ordinary garden of lawns and flowerbeds into their own mini-Eden, burying seven spotless rooms in a relaxing garden. Guests and hosts alike benefit from the tranquillity, manifest in Jaynie’s smile and Gordon’s obvious contentment as he braais away behind the bar.
But beware: from his workstation come rustic feasts to challenge the most voracious appetite, wines to lure the most disciplined off task, and stories to leave travellers incredulous.
There’s something of Mick (“Crocodile”) Dundee about Gordon. A night drifting to sleep on a mountain of cushy pillows, vaguely aware of frogs croaking one minute and birds chirping the next made this weak urbanite feel terrific.
Villa Castollini
Uitzicht, Brenton-on-Sea, Brenton, Knysna
Tel: 044 381 8200
Here’s a little piece of Italy picked up and tweezered on to 23 of the Garden Route’s finest hectares, a modern Tuscan villa set on top of Knysna’s western head. I arrived through a grand mosaic entrance, to be greeted by Nan and her friendly Bernese mountain dog and I felt reassured that I was in safe paws.
Nan and her witty French husband Patrick run their guesthouse with affection and energy. Each bedroom has its own identity. Some have dressing rooms, others sitting rooms. All are large and lead out to a 180º view of Knysna town, the Outeniqua mountains and the oyster beds of the Knysna estuary. Put aside time each day just to appreciate this view.
I enjoyed the raised, open-plan, Italian kitchen filled with tins of decadent treats, which guests are welcome to help themselves to. But my favourite has to be the Ferrari room with its Ferrari-themed bar, collection of miniatures (cars, not bottles) and paraphernalia. Nan has personally overseen 78 weddings here. This might just be the perfect Garden Route wedding, honeymoon or other special occasion venue.
Packwood
Fisanthoek, Nr Harkerville, Between Knysna and Plettenberg Bay
Tel: 044 532 7614
“Rooney, off!” sighs Vicky, nudging her boisterous puppy (yes, named after Wayne) off the cream sofa. Rooney, tumbling into 400ha of verdant pasture and vineyard, is not complaining. He bounds off to terrorise 900 dairy cattle. Sandwiched between Knysna Forest and the sea, Packwood is a true working farm.
Here, wrapped in mountains, with a view of the Robberg peninsula, free-roaming Jerseys produce 5 000 litres of milk a day. But Vicky and Peter, who honeymooned in South Africa in 1996 and returned to Berkshire only to collect their wedding presents, aren’t a pair to rest on their laurels. 2009 heralded their crisp Maiden Vintage Sauvignon Blanc and Packwood is the first guest- farm along the Garden Route to produce its own wine and cheese.
Plump for one of three summery, self-catering cottages, two of which are thatched; or avail yourselves of Ilsa the housekeeper’s infamously fiery chicken curry and naughty chocolate mousse cake by opting for one of three darling rooms in the main house.
Vicky loves peeping into the cosy guest lounge and finding sleepy bodies – sated on bike rides, pool laps and goodies from the veggie garden – sprawled by the fire. A stay at Packwood means lots of cheese and wine, lazy mornings and some heavenly peace.
Villa Afrikana
13 Watsonia Drive, Paradise, Knysna
Tel: 044 382 4989
I’d barely hauled my car up the sloped driveway when smiley-eyed Bianca wondered if I’d like a frothy coffee. Well, if they’re as Italian as Ross and as plush as their guesthouse, I certainly would. Bianca (whose family live down the hill) and Ross (from Florence) met working on a cruise liner – he in hospitality management, she in administration – and pooled their gifts in this tightly run guest ship. White floors stretch through cool, clean living areas, parting for deep white sofas and zebra-skin rugs, while floor-to-ceiling windows reveal panoramic lagoon vistas.
Upstairs, in unfussy, roomy, balconied suites, subtle African touches tug at modern Euro-minimalism. Local painter Niel Nieuwoudt’s bespoke interpretations of Knysna grace each room. The stylish crow’s nest towers over Knysna: from Bianca’s pancake-prepping kitchen, we watched yachts wriggle round the lagoon. Plunging my car back into reality, I knew I’d dream of paradise that night. - Sunday Tribune