Cape Town - Porter Protus Ngwane, having noticed my luggage tag, said “I see you live in Inanda Road. I’m from Inanda”.
Observant – and I’ve no doubt he gauges each guest’s degree of chattiness or approachability. He was a long way from home at The Marine hotel in Hermanus and one of a stream of personable and on-the-ball staff at this five star clifftop hotel overlooking Walker Bay.
A well-travelled colleague recently chirped, “I’m sick of five star.” I knew what she meant – that she was sick of poncy, precious places and people. You won’t find that here – or at any of the hotels in The Collection owned by Liz McGrath.
McGrath may have recently passed on, but her legacy remains and the family and staff steadfastly uphold her high standards, something remarked on by all guests.
The Marine remains a Hermanus institution despite newer, larger upstarts in the ’hood. The 40 individually decorated bedrooms and suites all face the sea below the cliffs of Walker Bay, which provides sanctuary from June to November each year for breeding southern right whales. Hermanus’s whale-crier walks the cliff paths and blows his kelp horn to alert of their presence. You often don’t need to leave your room to spot them, though from a boat it is an unforgettable experience.
The hotel will arrange that and much more, be it sampling some of our finest wines in the Hemel-en-Aarde Valley above Hermanus, a quad bike ride to the lookout above the town – from where you can also paraglide – or some pampering at the in-house Carchele Beauty Spa. There is so much on offer with a busy calendar of festivals, concerts and events and a thriving arts scene amid incredible beauty.
I blew up from Cape Town in typical stormy winter weather having traversed the R44, arguably the most scenic coastal route I’ve travelled, and was content to watch hardier souls (loads of them) traversing the paths from my sheltered balcony until the weather cleared. The seven premier suites are, unusually in these days of cookie cutter accommodation, different in design and decoration, with the magnificent David Rawdon suite having large bay windows and a loft bedroom looking out beyond the gardens towards the ocean through a porthole.
Spending time indoors revealed the attention to detail – from the personal service to the exceptional cuisine, which is overseen by Relais & Châteaux Grand Chef Peter Tempelhoff. I had dinner in The Pavilion, one of two premium restaurants (the other being The SeaFood). The delicate and intricate dishes reflect the distinct flavours and tenor of the Overberg region.
The food, the wine, the ambience and excellent service ensured a memorable occasion.
It was with reluctance yet smiles that I dragged myself away as I headed towards sister hotel, The Plettenberg.
Call 028 313 1000 or visit www.collectionmcgrath.com
Sunday Tribune