Amble through a history lesson

There are a large number of brilliant rehabilitative efforts in progress in Muizenberg; just a few years ago these were murky corners where one might have hesitated to walk, but that's no longer true.

The town is perky and bright, with neat, clean and often whimsically decorated houses and pretty gardens. There's also an initiative to bring the town's fascinating social history to the fore, while providing a good leg-stretch at the same time.

I emphasise "social" history, because this is not just another rehash - ho-hum - of the Battle of Muizenberg; it's much, much more.

For example, Oldham's Field. Did you know that the area between Albertyn Road and Zandvlei was once an airfield? There are even a few old hangars in Muizenberg, one of them fronting onto Albertyn Road near the railway crossing. What's more, the very first airmail postage in South Africa was sent from Kenilworth Racecourse to Muizenberg in 1911.

At the other end of town is a grim, blue-painted relic; the Atlantic Hotel. Destined for rehabilitation or demolition - who knows? It once sported an invention that was the first of its kind in SA. The hotel faces the sea, and the good old south easter - which Muizies is famous for - played havoc with the front door. The architect invented a revolving door to solve the problem. Think about that next time the south-easter drives you in through those revolving doors at the Waterfront.

Maybe you should also ponder why, these days, the Waterfront is regarded as more trendy than Muizenberg, when the summer wind is just as bad there!

Muizenberg also has a curious "faith centre". Buddhist prayer flags flap in the Old Village, and across the line there are two churches - Anglican and Methodist. Both are less than 100m from the synagogue. What's more, right across the road from the latter is the kramat of Sayed Abdul Aziz. The kramat is on the edge of the old military camp, where the bowling green is today. The camp had nothing to do with that battle. It was a rehabilitation camp for soldiers during the Anglo-Boer War, when the Brits believed that there was nothing as good for you as a dose of brisk sea air.

There was once a whaling station at Muizenberg, and down Palmer Road, in the heart of the Old Village, are a few wooden houses. These were pre-fabricated buildings erected more than 100 years ago to house the whalers.

At the other end of the social scale, Muizenberg was once a highly fashionable resort. If you wanted to be considered a Real Randlord you had to spend your summer holidays here. The town is replete with mansions large and small, from Sir Herbert Baker designs to the more "humble" Rhodes Cottage types, where Cecil could pretend that he was slumming it.

And that wonderfully ornate railway station was built to welcome the private trains and carriages that rolled in straight from Joburg. There was no need to slum it on Metrorail from Cape Town for those guys - even Cecil had his private carriages.

Walking tours, a part of the Whale of a Heritage Route that covers the False Bay coast from Muizenberg southwards, are organised from the Posthuys Museum. The museum is the oldest surviving European-built house in SA (1673), and is a wonderful repository of artefacts, from stone-age to That Battle to Colonial Muizenberg.

Your guide could be a historian such as Colin Johnstone, and the three-hour tour allows time for snacks at one of the many small eating houses in the town.

You need to book in advance and be in a party of at least six, before a tour will be run for you. The fees are modest, especially as you'll receive a well-printed diagram to complement your copy of Silvermine - the map, which includes a detailed street map of the town.

A good walk for a brisk winter's day. Follow it up with a long ramble along Muizenberg's famous beach, or down the catwalk to St James.

Email all your comments to [email protected]

Muizenberg Walks

- Route: All roadsigns point to Muizenberg; all trains, buses and taxis will know the way.

- Route maps: Silvermine - the map; and/or Cape Peninsula - the map.

- Distance from central Cape Town: About 32km; 30 minutes.

- Information for Walk: Tourist Junction on 021-782-4531, or email

- Best web site: A Whale Of A Heritage Routeor Muizenberg- highly recommended!

- Places to eat: Lots, also highly recommended.

- Places to stay: Consult the Muizenberg Info office.

- Permits for walk: Booking via Tourist Junction, cell 079-391-2105.

- Dogs allowed on walk: Not recommended; not allowed at Posthuys.