We left Chobe for Livingstone in Zambia with the sights, sounds and scent of elephants dominating our reflections on three days spent at the park in Botswana.

Two incidents on game drives with our top-class guide, Rodgers Sibanda, remain etched in my mind.

The first involved a first-time-in-Africa British tourist, obviously stunned by what he had seen, wanting some specs on the average size of an adult elephant’s manhood. Quick as flash, Rodgers - who had obviously been asked the question many times previously - answered: “About a metre long when erect and weighing around 28kg.”

Impressive stats which drew exclamations and raised eyebrows from the group on the drive.

On the other occasion, a visitor from the US was interested in the cause of death of a young elephant whose body was lying near the water’s edge on the flood plain. Rodgers said tests were being done to establish the cause but it was thought to be anthrax.

This prompted a question from the New Yorker: “So if it’s found to be anthrax, will there be a campaign to inoculate all the other elephants against the disease?”

Some of us know-alls struggled to suppress chuckles while Rodgers answered diplomatically.

During the short drive to the Kazungulu border crossing into Zambia, I struggled with a dilemma. Should we opt for the adventurous ferry crossing or the seemingly more simple road route through Zimbabwe?

Eventually, and with some trepidation, I decided on the ferry despite a recurring vision of my vehicle slowly disappearing under the waters of the Zambezi River.

Down by the riverside things were chaotic. Dozens of trucks were parked all over the place and no one appeared to be running the show.

After asking several bystanders, I was directed to a guy wearing a blue overall ushering in an arriving ferry. I told him what I wanted and he motioned for me to wait behind two trucks. I did this, not certain I was in the right place. A tip-truck went on followed by a large horse and trailer; then suddenly he waved us through.

Next thing we were on board with the clearance between us and the articulated truck no more than a few centimetres. I paid the $28 fee and the ferry glided into open water. Suppressing my anxiety, I took a deep breath, determined to enjoy the journey.

It was very short - no more than five or six minutes - but great fun watching the activity on board and in the comoros which came from the Zambian side to help take goods off the ferry.

The Zambian border post was a hell hole, with dozens of operators pulling and pushing in their efforts to relieve me of money. After literally beating most of them off, I faced Zambian officials, who did little to clear confusion in my mind about what was required.

After a long haul of paying out cash, completing forms and watching my back, we drove out of the melee en route to Livingstone. If anything would make me think twice about returning to Zambia

by road it’s the Kazungulu border post.

We arrived at the Royal Livingstone Hotel where another spectacular in-Africa-only scene greeted us as we walked out of the lobby on to the patio to see the Zambezi River rushing by at the bottom of the garden area, bubbling and swirling its way a few hundreds metres downstream before crashing over a cliff face to create a section of the Victoria Falls.

Mist from the falls, known locally as Mosi-oa-Tunya (the Smoke that Thunders), can be seen from the hotel deck, where guests enjoy sundowners every evening. When the water in the river is high, the spray is visible from about 40km away.

The area has a lot more to offer than just viewing the falls. Activities include river cruises, whitewater rafting, jet boating, canoeing, bungee jumping, a heart-stopping swing over the gorge, helicopter flights over the falls, elephant-back safaris, lion walks, a steam train ride on the Royal Livingstone Express, fishing on the Zambezi and microlight flights over the area.

One of the most thrilling experiences is a visit to Livingstone Island where in 1856 renowned missionary and explorer David Livingstone first viewed the falls.

A short boat ride from the hotel takes “adventurers” to the island where guides provide interesting background on the geology and flora and fauna.

Then it’s a short swim across the river (those unable to swim hitch rides on the backs of the guides) to Devil’s Pool situated on the lip of the falls, centimetres from where the waters plunge about 100m down into the gorge.

Under the care of guides, it’s either a leap or a more subdued slither into the pool and a swim of a lifetime. The ultimate is being able to cautiously peer over the falls into the watery void below.

After the excitement, a short swim back across the river is rewarded by breakfast or lunch under a gazebo.

Visits to the island are only possible during low water periods from about June to November.

The Royal Livingstone Hotel has a tasteful colonial theme evident in the décor as well as the dress and uniforms of many of the 250-strong staff.

There are colourfully regaled doormen at the entrance, butlers on call at all rooms and a sumptuous high tea at around 4pm each day.

The hotel, which boasts Arnold Schwarzenegger and Rafael Nadal among its many famous guests, will undergo a refurbishment next year.

The final adventure before continuing our journey on to the Zambian capital of Lusaka was a walk over the Vic Falls Bridge into Zimbabwe.

Items offered by curio sellers along the way include trillion dollar Zimbabwean bank notes - pretty worthless when they were in circulation but now of absolutely no monetary value after the local currency was withdrawn and replaced by the US dollar.

• For more information on the Royal Livingstone Hotel telephone 011 780 7800 or visit www.suninternational.com - Sunday Tribune