Every journey to a new destination begins with expectations carved out of childhood tales, classic books and folklore. It was a combination of these influences that had me quite complacent about a visit to Kenya… I knew what to expect.
Landing in Nairobi at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport is no different from any other airport interaction on the continent; it’s hot and sticky, queues don’t move, everyone seems to be shouting at someone else and the local currency (Kenya shillings in this case) is available everywhere – at different rates. Straight on to Moi International Airport in Mombasa, which offers a crippled fan and an unmanned kiosk with warm Coke and stale crisps.
Wading into the humid air, we boarded our Landcruisers and headed for the beach. The trip was designed to take us from beach to bush, to dispel the myth that Kenya offers only safari adventures.
We drove through the beautiful Malindi area – a strip of idyllic tropical beaches along the Indian Ocean – and arrived at Diamonds Dream of Africa, where the exotic Indo-Arab buildings are charming and surrounded by a million palm trees that facilitate the breeze off the ocean.
It was immediately relaxing. Huge pools are the focus of every corner of the resort here as guests escape the stifling mugginess by getting even wetter.
Just down the road at Watamu, a marine national park has been established, offering snorkelling and diving trips in glass-bottomed boats. The water was crystal clear and although the reef has been damaged by storms and too many tourists resting on it, it hasn’t prevented the thousands of tiny fish from recognising a good food source when they see it, and they nibbled our fingers until we fed them, floating in the gentle swells.
It’s essential to have a really good guide in Kenya and Mubarak was fabulous: always happy to stop or share an anecdote, he explained the early Italian influence in the area, which makes for an interesting mix of cultures, food and ideas.
Everyone in Kenya is geared for tourism. It can become quite frustrating since everyone has a pitch, but essentially the service is great and every pitch so polite that you tend to nod in acceptance.
Altogether too soon the beach trip was over. From Nairobi, the drive to the Masai Mara is five hours or so and takes you along the Great Rift Valley.
Confronted by the reality of childhood mythology, we were astounded. We’ve all grown up with stories of the Mara but absolutely nothing can prepare you for the reality; the simple breathtaking beauty of endless land.
There is something captivating about being in the silence of an open space only to hear the sound of a cow bell rolling across the plains and, in the far distance, see a tall lone figure in red accompanied by a cattle herd as they make their way slowly from nowhere into the far distance of nowhere.
There are many small villages on the outskirts of the Mara and while the Masai themselves are accustomed to tourists, they tend to remain aloof from the activities, maintaining an aura of dignity and mystery.
Approaching the gate of the Mara was another shock. We had been driving through the Northern conservancy area and I was expecting to come upon a high elephant fence with a large thatched gate and a welcome sign, as is common in most of Africa.
A few rocks further along the dusty dirt road (it was the beginning of the rainy season) and then a rather rusty and shabby entrance gate – still no fencing anywhere in sight. The Mara started… here… and just carried on.
Hand over a wad of dollars and you’re in. Before you is a magnificent vista of biblical proportions: images of giraffe against a blue skyline, trains of elephant crossing the veld, buffalo herds so huge you leave the trail and drive across acres of grassland just to get around them.
This is the easiest terrain in which to spot eagles and vultures, since there are only ever about three trees in any direction and they are all in use.
The animals are so used to vehicles that they simply stare at you as you go by. Refreshments? Pick a grassy spot and make a picnic under a Balamite tree. All around, beetles and birds and buck carry on.
It’s a surreal experience.
The roads are lacking and often vehicles simply drive across rough terrain without slowing down much, resulting in what rangers refer to as the Masai massage: getting tossed about in the viewing vehicles – I think it’s just a ploy to make sure you slip those aching muscles into the Jacuzzi back at the hotel.
The Exploreans Mara Rianta Luxury Camp, in the heart of the North Conservation Masai Mara Reserve, is the first five-star accommodation built within the conservancy surrounding the Mara.
As you approach from an exhausting ride – it was only the ice-cold Tusker beer that saved us from bad temper and dehydration – the lodge contrives to remain hidden from view in this strange landscape where you can see forever yet still come upon surprises around boulders and in the dips of riverbeds.
Situated on the banks of the Mara River, the lodge is surrounded on three sides by swirling water and hundreds of hippo. Noisy and boisterous and great entertainment, they were our musical accompaniment for every meal.
Each guest is assigned an askari and a butler for the duration of the stay. The askari is to escort guests to and from rooms, since there is not a fence in sight. This has spoiled me forever. Visits to other wilderness areas suddenly seem so “contained” and tame; I find myself longing for an unbroken vista.
The luxury tents are built on elevated wooden platforms and have their own private viewing decks. The butler fulfils your every wish, from bringing coffee in the morning to rolling up your tent flaps as the sun rises. Nothing is too much trouble. The attention to detail was really five star, with handmade gifts on the pillow at night – no melted chocolates in this heat.
So much for my preconceptions. I realise I know little about this magnificent country and long to return.
If You Go...
The trip was organised by www.africanencounters.com, which offers a wide range of African adventures and all participants can be contacted through this group. 011 880 3079
Kenya Airways (KQ) operates 20 flights a week – three a day and two on Wednesdays – between Joburg and Nairobi. (www.kenya-airways.com)
The resorts are owned by PlanHotels (www.planhiotels.com)
Malindi: Diamonds Dream of Africa (www.dreamofafrica.diamonds-resorts.com)
Weather
Downpours followed by sunshine between April and May. Light showers between mid-November and December. The average annual temperature is between 27°C and 30°C.
Masai Mara: Exploreans Mara Rianta camp (www.marariantacamp.exploreans.com)
Weather: Between July and October the weather is dry, the vegetation is lush and the daytime temperatures are pleasant, making it the best time to see the park’s wildlife. Hot temperatures peak between December and January while June and July are the coolest months at the park. - Saturday Star