The Go Wild team explore Malawi and the Falls

Published Jun 14, 2002

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By Riaad Isaacs

As a tourist destination in Africa, Lake Malawi never really featured very high on my list of places I had to visit - but it certainly does now.

The laid-back, languid attitude - an all-too familiar African concept - is perfectly demonstrated here. The pace of life moves as gently as waves caressing silken beaches, much to the fruitless annoyance of strung-out travellers brought up on a diet of caffeine, traffic jams, deadlines and rude behaviour.

Africa, as those who venture north of the Limpopo River soon discover, has a timeless rhythm all her own, and you would do well to adopt her pace to experience her fully.

A charming South African couple who have been in Malawi for about four years run the Chintheche Inn - the rustic lakeside resort where we stayed. Their knowledge and understanding of the local culture, languages (there are numerous dialects), politics and the beautiful lake, made our stay here highly entertaining and also very informative.

The lake is obviously the mainstay of a visit, with diving, snorkelling, fishing or just plain roasting in the sun on offer. Remember also to look out for what at first looks like black smoke plumes floating on the lake. On closer inspection, it will turn out to be gigantic swarms of billions of gnats. Apparently they make an amazingly high-protein snack when squashed between two slices of bread.

Heading farther south we arrived at Livingstone in Zambia a few days later, and promptly got lost. It took the timely intervention by the staff at the Ocean Basket restaurant to save the day.

The waterside chalets where we stayed are situated on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River. The picture-postcard setting, lovely A-framed chalets, friendly countenance and much-hyped booze cruise up the river at sunset make this resort a popular haunt for young, boisterous adventurers as well as the more sophisticated traveller. Centrally located, you are a stone's throw away from the falls, the craft markets, Livingstone town and the border into Zimbabwe.

The Victoria Falls, considered one of the natural wonders of the world, are at their most spectacular at this time of the year. Enveloped in a watery cloud of spray, it is not always easy to get the clearest picture, and if you are going to get close be sure to hire a raincoat at the site, or simply stand back and soak up the majesty that is the falls.

The area, which has always been a hive of tourist activity, has recently suffered miserably due to the political instability in Zimbabwe. There are, however, still many fantastic activities on offer.

Just an easy border crossing into Zimbabwe, and you could be negotiating your way to incredible deals at the dirt-cheap craft markets.

Experience the bush from the unique perspective of an elephant's back on an early morning safari, where experienced rangers will have you feeling like the sultan himself, as they lead you on a languid amble through the bush for yet another memorable African encounter.

After a sumptuous breakfast, where you will get to feed your own elephant, you will then do your utmost to lose said breakfast as you leap off the Victoria Falls bridge in an 111m bungee jump. There is, in my opinion, no better way to finish a visit to the area than to plummet head first towards the river below, screaming at the top of your lungs.

If that's not your cup of tea, there is white water rafting and speed boating, or for the truly meek, soar hundreds of feet above the falls in a micro-light or my personal favourite, a gyro-copter. It is by far the headiest way to see the falls and magnificent gorge through which the mighty Zambezi flows.

Politics aside, the area is still an incredible tourist destination, and still relatively good value for South Africans. Bon voyage.

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