By Adrian Rorvik
Gaborone - I have long been intrigued by the Okavango. As a sprog back in the 70s, a school chum regaled me with fabulous tales, while in the 90s my late friend Steven Morris, who was a chef at a camp, once spent a month alone on an island there on a personal quest for enlightenment.
Would I be able to share some of Steven’s experiences, I wondered as we flew from Johannesburg to Maun in Northern Botswana?
The flying was a breeze: leaving Pietermaritzburg aboard an Airlink flight, changing without having to re-check baggage at OR Tambo, and in Maun by lunchtime. Seemingly endless, uninhabited desert and semi-desert had been our view for much of the trip to Maun. As we approached Maun airport, this was interspersed with glistening bodies of water, scrub and trees.
A superlative may just be a word on a page until you’ve experienced it, but it was pretty apt when it came to Wilderness Safaris/Air who flew us from camp to camp.
This is one very slick, professional outfit packaging exceptional adventures. At Maun, their representative greeted us with smiles and scented cool facecloths, and whisked us ahead of queues. Soon we were winging our way, en route to our first camp, the premier Vumbura Plains.
Water glistened, shimmered and shone under the hazy blue sky as we flew over the Okavango Delta. Words cannot adequately describe the phenomenon of the Okavango River merging into the Kalahari sands. Each year approximately 11km³ of water spreads over the 6 000 – 15 000km² area. How does it flow, I kept asking myself, since there is a less than two metre variation across the Delta? Nevertheless, flow it does.
The water is 97 percent potable and filtered by the white sands. It appeared in a myriad aspects: glinting from between reed rafts and papyrus, festooned with lilies, shining through grasses and over contrasting coloured beds of innumerable channels, marshes and lakes. The waters were punctuated with small islands and palm trees, as well as elephants, swaying giraffe and other game.
It was almost with regret that we landed at Vumbura Plains. This is bush elegance of the highest order with close attention given to every detail. Once your preferences are assessed, you will find your preferred tipple as a nightcap in your suite, for example.
And what suites! These enormous thatched extravagances with canvas sides are raised (for safety) above the ground. Each is on two levels with a sunken lounge, plunge pool and private deck.
The star attraction, the Delta, awaited and after dragging ourselves from the exceptional afternoon tea spread, we were whisked off by the charming Lazarus Maolosi for our first excursion.
I am neither a twitcher nor a budding botanist, but was fascinated by the make-up of our surrounds. I saw game in greater numbers and at closer proximity than I have ever seen. Wild dogs and hyena are generally elusive and retiring. Here they could have been mistaken for domestic pets. Lechwe (antelope) and Tsessebe (more buck) are not common back home. Elephant are and buffalo too, but I’d not seen them in such numbers.
The water levels were rising and we spent some time zipping through channels in a motorboat, as well as poling placidly in the fibreglass version (to save trees) of the traditional Mokoro dugout, among bobbing lilies and spectacularly bright Angolan Reed Frogs. Back at camp we shared our delights with fellow guests and staff over leisurely feasts and fine wines. Later, after an outdoor shower under the stars, we were lulled to sleep by those same frogs.
All too soon our Vumbura visit was over and we headed out of the Delta to Savuti Camp in the Savute Channel – a river system 35 minutes away by air.
It’s different here in many respects, being hotter and drier. Savuti makes the most of its perch above the extravagant sweeping bend of the Linyanti River. It has a different feel, is more “traditional safari”, and is one of Wilderness Safari’s classic camps with great food and a relaxed atmosphere.
It’s also perhaps “greener”, with a thermos flask instead of kettle in the room, no fridge and no pool with a pump.
We were in the care of Goodman Ndlovu, the antithesis of Lazarus. While Lazarus was quite the cowboy, Goodman was careful and precise. But both were charming and they made our Wilderness guiding experience exceptional. I was deeply impressed by the guides’ knowledge and commitment.
I was thrilled at Savuti to have close, separate sightings within 26 hours of three leopards, to witness the display of the huge Kori Bustard, and watch a massive troupe of baboons having trouble with a pesky young Impala. Quieter delights included trees “decorated” with giant communal spider nests.
We learnt a lot about understanding and appreciating what the bush was teaching. This meant being still, attentive and in the moment, so I guess I did indeed discover what my friend Steven Morris came here for.
l Wilderness Safaris’ recently launched African Residents Programme is a loyalty programme which offers whopping discounts. To find out more about member benefits visit www.wilderness-residents.co.za or e-mail [email protected].
l For inquiries or bookings contact Wilderness Safaris on 011 807 1800, e-mail [email protected] or visit www.wilderness-safaris.com. - Sunday Tribune