Whether it’s an old bent monk in red robes feeding pigeons in a hilltop monastery, women in jewel-coloured saris moving rocks and boulders by hand from landslides blocking the mountain roads; whether it’s the unique beauty of the Taj Mahal; priceless paintings, traffic-choked streets, gracious colonial hotels and house-high dumps of roadside rubbish – they all add up to the almost indescribable magic of India.