Cats, catacombs, forts and flowers

Published May 20, 2016

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By Adrian Rorvik

 

Istanbul - Tulips are not from Amsterdam. They are from Turkey.

In spring they marry happily with other flowers in a circus of colour along the boulevards, in parks and other public areas of Istanbul – an uplifting sight.

You would swear that cats, too, originate here. They are everywhere and one can hardly call them feral as the easy going nature of Istanbulians extends to four-legged creatures.

During an al fresco dinner they were welcome to eat scraps off plates waiting to be washed. In the bazaars they are fed. At the Rahmi M Koç Museum there is a cat crossing sign.

Dogs, too, roam leisurely, usually single and ear tagged – part of the cities Trap Tag and Release programme where they are captured, vaccinated, fixed, and released back into their neighbourhood.

It's an unusual approach to a worldwide problem in this unusual, enigmatic metropolis where few people own pets since most live in apartments in what is the world's fifth largest city in terms of population. Happily, not high rise, ugly blocks. Instead, they are often red roofed and reflect the Ottoman architectural style.

The architecture, the history, is what most come to explore and admire. For the first-timer (and several times thereafter) a guided tour is recommended to at least get your bearings before finding your own way around.

Tours such as those offered by Renk Travel have tight schedules and in high season, if lunch is for 90 people, you may find you have to eat and run but you won't have to stand in queues once at your destination. Best plan for off peak – now is perfect. The most popular? The Byzantium and Ottoman Relics and Bosphorus Cruise and Two Continents Tour, both full day with lunch, both €70 (R1 200).

Shopping and history merge at the Spice Bazaar – for real Turkish Delight you won't find here – and the humungous Grand Covered Bazaar, dating back to the 1400s. It's the biggest souk in the world with nearly 4 000 shops in 61 covered streets selling antiques, jewellery, gold, carpets, leatherware and souvenirs.

I'd mislaid my wallet so, after buying some glass “eye” amulets with pocket change, I headed for exquisitely beautiful Hagia Sophia, constructed as a basilica in the 6th century by Emperor Justinian and now a museum.

The Sultan Ahmed Mosque, commonly know as the Blue Mosque for the many blue tiles adorning its walls, as well as its giant blue stained glass windows and blue painted ceilings, faces Hagia Sophia across a park or two. Do some neck limbering exercises before entering because you'll be looking up in awe the whole time.

The Obelisk of Theodosius that some Roman Emperor swiped from the Egyptians and brought to Constantinople in 390AD – a huge burnt column sensibly known as The Burnt Column – some pomegranate juice and it was back via picturesque streets and beautiful gardens to the bazaar, dog in tow and flushed from my exertions to meet my companions flushed from their haggling.

A meditative time in the Nuruosmaniye Mosque outside the bazaar entrance while stragglers were rounded up, and we were on our way again.

Where it became a blur. Topkapi Palace, the lavish seat of the Ottoman Empire for centuries, with a dazzling array of jewels and artefacts and panoramic Bosphorus views; Beylerbeyi Palace, the summer residence of Ottoman sultans; the magnificent Dolmabahce Palace – we gape in awe at this homage to excess that includes a 4.5 ton crystal chandelier (the biggest in the world), a Baccarat crystal staircase and 14 tons of gold gilding the ceilings.

The ancient city walls, the Ciragan Palace and adjoining hotel for tea and the best baklava, a memorable meal at Villa Bosphorus with the most sublime sea bass, the Suleymaniye Mosque. It was a whirl (not quite up to Dervish standards), but quieter places delighted too.

My favourite, with “sticky” ice cream (quite a show) on the way, was probably Eyüp Sultan Mosque where Eyüp (Job) al-Ansari, standard-bearer friend of prophet Muhammad is buried. A sacred site in both religious and Turkish political history, I was hard pressed to leave.

Sunday Tribune

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