Get icing on the cake in Reykjavik

Published Nov 11, 2015

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Reykjavik - This is the winter to go north. The Icelandic capital, Reykjavik, is blossoming, with the new Culture House reflecting the nation’s art and literature, the country’s biggest and tallest hotel recently opened, and a host of fresh places to eat and drink.

And the northern-lights season is just beginning...

While Reykjavik has a domestic airport within walking distance of the centre, the international airport is 48km south west at Keflavik.

Treat the 45-minute journey into the city as a bonus, because the highway from the airport runs through dramatic volcanic terrain.

The Flybus (00 354 580 5400; re.is/flybus) runs an erratic schedule to the BSI bus terminal for a return fare of 3 500 Icelandic krona (R363), with transfers at extra cost to most city hotels and hostels.

Get your bearings

Reykjavik is draped across a peninsula shaped like a dragon’s head, tucked into a sheltered bay in south-west Iceland, with dramatic views of the mountains across the water to the north. The historic core of the capital (known as 101, after the local postcode) lies between the harbour and an inland lake, Tjornin. The city’s helpful tourist office is at Adalstraeti 2 (00 354 590 1550; visitreykjavik.is). It opens from 9am to 6pm from Monday to Friday, and to 4pm on Saturdays and 2pm on Sundays.

A Reykjavik City Card offers unlimited public transport, entry to most museums and thermal baths, and a range of other discounts for 4 400 krona (R470) for 48 hours; citycard.is.

Check in

Iceland’s largest hotel is the brand-new 320-room Fosshotel, east of the city centre at Porunnartun 1 (00 354 531 9000; fosshotel.is). A standard room with breakfast is priced at E185 (R2 800); the quality of the panorama increases, along with room rates, as you rise to the 16th floor (if you’re staying lower down, nip up in the lift to enjoy the views).

The Marina Hotel at Myrargata 2 (00 354 560 8000; icehotels.is) is a 21st-century place to stay, housed in a 20th-century paint factory next to the harbour’s dry dock. The public areas on the ground floor are whimsical, while the comfortable rooms come equipped with instructions for tying knots or learning Icelandic phrases. A new block offers all-suite accommodation and the services of a butler.

Last-minute prices are typically 51 000 krona double, including what is billed as the “best breakfast buffet in Reykjavik”.

At the other end of the price spectrum, choose a hostel – which in Reykjavik are more like budget hotels. The City Hostel is east of the centre, on the north side of Laugardalur Park, adjacent to Iceland’s largest thermal pool complex, Laugardalslaug. A bed in a 4-person dorm costs 3 400 krona, while a private double is 11 700 krona. Rates include en-suite facilities and breakfast.

DAY ONE

Take a view

The harbourside has been transformed by Harpa, a vast concert hall conceived during Iceland’s boom years. When it opened in 2011, the country was already plumbing economic depths. On any day from 8am to midnight you can see the way the grid of 1 000 blocks of glass teases the light (00 354 528 5000; harpa.is).

Take a hike

Follow the waterside west; the earthworks on your left are the original harbour walls. Tourism is gradually displacing industry as the converted Marina Hotel shows. Where the harbour wall turns north, the Maritime Museum tells the story of life on Europe’s raw edge (00 354 411 6300; reykjavikcitymuseum.is; 10am to 5pm daily; 1 400 krona).

Beyond it at Fiskisloo 23, Whales of Iceland contains life-size replicas in steel and foam of 23 cetaceans found around Iceland’s coast (00 354 571 0077; whalesoficeland.is; 9am to 6pm daily; 2 900 krona). Head up to the roundabout to find the Saga Museum; there are impressive murals on nearby buildings. Walk between the colourful corrugated-iron dwellings on Vesturgata and emerge beside the tourist office.

Lunch on the run

Here you’ll find Pylsuhusid, a kiosk serving hot dogs (Iceland’s favourite fast food) for 450 krona. Or, on a bright day, the adjoining terrace at Uno is a lunchtime suntrap, for enjoying a salmon bruschetta (1 350 krona).

Cultural afternoon

Despite being capital of a country of only 300 000 people, Reykjavik has a remarkable breadth and depth of culture. In the heart of the city, the Hafnarhus is a converted warehouse at Tryggvagata 17 that houses the Reykjavik Art Museum (00 354 590 1200; artmuseum.is; 10am to 5pm daily, Thursdays to 8pm; 1 400 krona). It houses a diverse and startling range of modern works and an explanation of how American artist Richard Serra created his Standing Stones exhibit on Videy Island.

The handsome 1909 National Library and National Archives of Iceland is now at the Culture House where it traces the island’s soul through poignant words and images (00 354 530 2210; culturehouse.is; 10am to 5pm daily except Mondays; 1 200 krona). The National Museum at Suourgata 41 (00 354 530 2200; nationalmuseum.is; 11am to 5pm daily except Mondays; 1 500 krona), covers the people’s story since humans first came to Iceland.

An aperitif

The handsome, theatrical Beer Garden at the Fosshotel has two dozen beers in strengths ranging from 4.5 to 10 percent.

(As winter deepens, you may be relieved to learn it is an indoor garden.)

Dine with the locals

On a cold northern evening, Babalu at Skolavordustigur 354 555 8845; babalu.is) is a cosy café for wolfing down traditional lamb soup (1 680 krona) and cheesecake.

For a hint of Latin American sunshine, there’s Tacobarinn at Hverfisgata 20 (00 354 519 7579), where dishes such as salmon ceviche (2 350 krona) bridge the gap between north Europe and South America.

DAY TWO

Sunday morning: go to church

A spaceship built from concrete organ pipes sums up the commanding Hallgrímskirkja church (16) (00 354 510 1000; hallgrimskirkja.is; 9am to 5pm daily, entry free). Taking the lift heavenwards to the top of the 73m bell tower costs 900 krona (£4.50).

Window shopping

Laugavegur is the nation’s main shopping street. For vintage fashion, track down Nostalgia (17) at No 32 (00 354 511 2023) or, opposite at No 28B, Spúútnik (00 354 533 2023). Vinyl music shops are also in vogue, with Bad Taste Records at No 35 featuring a museum dedicated to local band The Sugarcubes. For substantial purchases you can reclaim the VAT.

Out to brunch

The Laundromat Café at Austurstraeti 9 (00 354 587 7555; thelaundromatcafe.com; 9am to midnight on Sundays, longer hours other days) allows you to do your washing as you feast on grilled rye bread with avocado and two fried eggs for 1 890 krona.

A dip in the park

Iceland has harnessed geothermal energy to provide its citizens with limitless hot water.

This geological bounty is best enjoyed at Laugardalslaug, the complex of pools on the edge of Laugardalur Park. It is open 8am to 10pm at weekends, 6.30am to 10pm on weekdays, admission 650 krona.

Take a ride

The ferry to Videy Island takes five minutes (1 100 krona return) from the pier at Skarfabakki (19) at 1.15pm and 2.15pm, taking you to a windswept isle that’s also an outdoor art gallery.

At the western end is the Peace Tower – a white cylinder – created by John Lennon’s widow, Yoko Ono. It carries the message “Imagine Peace” in 24 languages.

Icing on the cake

On your way back to Keflavik airport, divert by way of the Blue Lagoon (00 354 420 8800; bluelagoon.com), where the run-off from a thermal power station has become Iceland’s biggest tourist attraction.

The Independent

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