Prague - Prague is one of Europe’s big hitters, with a tangled history that swings from the romantic to the tragic.
It has seen occupation, repression and liberation — and it’s a wonder it remains so enchanting.
You need two full days to do it justice so plan on three nights — and pack some sturdy shoes because almost all the streets are cobbled and everywhere is walkable.
I WANT TO BE ALONE
Tricky. But don’t believe for a second that the place is overrun by hen or stag night hijinks. Avoid the summer if you can and, if you’re going for only two or three nights, try to miss weekends. Early spring and September or October are ideal.
BACKGROUND BRIEFING...
The Republic of Czechoslovakia was founded in 1918 following the end of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. But it was occupied by Germany in World War II and then became a one-party communist state in 1948 under Soviet influence.
A reform movement was crushed in 1968 when the Soviets invaded and it was not until the 1989 Velvet Revolution that it emerged from the shadows.
Its first president after becoming a republic in 1993 was the writer Vaclav Havel. He died five years ago but is still much loved.
A photo posted by Nilüfer Kurt (@_nkurt_) on Mar 16, 2016 at 10:00am PDT
WHERE TO STAY?
There are plenty of cheaper options than the Four Seasons (fourseasons.com/prague) but none is in a better position.
Book a room with a view of Prague Castle and below it the haunting Charles Bridge with its statues of 30 saints spanning the River Vltava. The hotel dates in part to 1737. Service is impeccable and its Italian/Japanese restaurant, CottoCrudo, is one of the best in town.
THE ESSENTIAL ITINERARY
You must hire a guide who speaks good English. Ask Kirker Holidays (details below) if you can have Rosa. She’s 86 and has lived through much of the country’s extraordinary history. Old Town Square (with its famous astronomical clock) is where you should start, admiring the Gothic spires of the Church of our Lady and the rococo Goltz-Kinsky Palace (where Kafka studied), then take in the haunting Jewish District, the Municipal House and some of the tiny narrow streets that make you lose all sense of direction.
Over the Charles Bridge and you’re into the Little Quarter. Pay to enter the Church of St Nicholas, a riot of High Baroque, where Mozart played the organ in 1787, and then keep going up the hill to Prague Castle and St Vitus Cathedral.
BEAT THE CROWDS?
Hardly, but make a point of spending a good hour at the mesmerising Lobkowicz Palace (lobkowicz.com). This privately owned palace tells the story of one of the richest families in the country, which twice had all its treasures confiscated — but everything is back where it belongs, including two Canelettos of 18th century London and some astonishing original scores and manuscripts of Beethoven and Mozart.
Have you ever got up close and personal with #praguecastle? 🏰💕 #fairytale #castle #prague
A photo posted by To Travel Is To Live 💜 (@maketimetoseetheworld) on Mar 15, 2016 at 1:58pm PDT
THIRSTY WORK
For sure. Even if you don’t normally drink beer, you should here. The Pilsner Urquell somehow tastes different, stronger, fresher — and certainly cheaper.
Before dinner, drop in at Tretter’s, a contemporary bar near Old Town Square. Opt for local wines (surprisingly good dry rieslings) and pop into the tiny absinthe bar called Residence U Tri Bubnu. Sip rather than down it in one.
LET THE MUSIC BEGIN
A night at the State National Opera is a joy — and a steal. Expect to pay no more than £20-£30 (about R400 to R600) to be in the stalls. But hurry.
The theatre will close in July for two years of renovation (state-opera.com). There are also regular concerts at venues all over the city, particularly in the spectacular Mirror Chapel (dvorak-symphony-orchestra.com).
DINNER IS SERVED
There are 155 churches in Prague but they are vastly outnumbered by bars and restaurants. Top of anyone’s list should be cosy and romantic U Maliru (umaliru.cz) in Maltezske Square. The building dates to 1543. Ask to see the wine cellars.
Food is top-notch French. Francouzska (francouzskarestaurace.cz) is in the Municipal House building and is an East European Art Deco meets Art Nouveau confection. Terrific for people watching. If near the opera house, eat at Cestr, which specialises in meat.
ANYTHING ELSE?
On May 14 it will be 700 years since the birth of Charles IV, father of the country. Currency is the Czech crown but euros are accepted. There are trams and a Metro if you don’t fancy walking. Amadeus, Mission Impossible, The Chronicles Of Narnia and Casino Royale were all filmed here. And Albert Einstein spent a year living here while teaching at the German University.
TRAVEL FACTS
KIRKER Holidays (kirkerholidays.com, 020 7593 2283) offers three nights B&B at the Four Seasons Prague from £849pp, based on two sharing, including BA flights from Heathrow, private transfers, three-hour private walking tour, Kirker Guide Notes and Kirker Concierge to book opera and concert tickets, expert guides or a table for dinner. More info at czechtourism.com.
Daily Mail