France conjurs up images of Paris, the Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame and that mysterious lady in the Louvre. But the country has so much to offer the traveller who is willing to venture a little further from the obvious tourist spots.
I recently spent a week in France exploring some of the sights, sounds and tastes as a guest of Atout France. While the main purpose of the trip was to eat myself into a stupor, we spent a fair amount of time getting to know the people and countryside.
Our first stop was at the quirky College Hotel in the beautiful old section of the city of Lyon, the gastronomic capital of France.
Cross over the rivers Rhone and Saone and you’ll find yourself wandering the quaint cobbled streets of Vieux-Lyon, character-filled buildings leaning in from either side and quirky cafes spilling out into the walkways.
The old district of Lyon holds so many hidden gems if you have the time to explore and even get a little lost.
Heavy doors hide dark tunnels which lead to ancient cool courtyards with water wells and stone walkways. While there are some weather-worn plaques, it’s a good idea to find a local tour guide to take you around and fill you in on some of the town’s colourful history.
We popped into the Saint Jean Cathedral and admired its gorgeous detailed astronomical clock, which is thought to have been installed in the cathedral in 1383, before heading for the tram which took us at an alarming angle up to the top of Fourviere, which affords panoramic views of the city.
But if you need any reason to take the short trip it’s to take in the beauty of the Notre Dame de Fourviere basilica. With stark stone exterior and crisp detail, the rich mosaic interior simply takes your breath away.
We took a winding walk back down the hill, stopping briefly at some Roman ruins, thought to date back to 15BC, which brought to mind scenes of the Asterix and Obelix and those “crazy Romans”. The old amphitheatre now plays host to an annual festival of music, drama and film.
Lyon is surrounded by countryside, with the popular Beaujolais region just a short drive away. The rolling hills are home to many wine farms and we stopped at one of the smaller ones to enjoy an aperitif with the winemakers before making our way to the charming Golden Stones district, the old buildings glowing golden in the late afternoon sun.
We took some time to wander around the picturesque story-book town of Oingt – home to a myriad artists and creatives.
France also boasts many forgotten old houses and châteaux. After a busy day of exploring the countryside we enjoyed a lavish dinner at the Château de Bagnois, which has been restored to its former glory and is now part of a chain of hotels. However, if you have a few extra euros lying around it could be yours for a modest 10 million or so.
Of course, a trip to France would not be complete without a whirlwind visit to Paris and when I could no longer eat another bite I said goodbye to the other journos and headed out into the city of love.
The Metro system is fairly easy to navigate once you’ve got a handle on the different lines and directions.
But on the first day of autumn the weather was perfect for six or seven hours of walking. The Seine is an excellent point of reference and I picked up a map at the Hotel Chambellan Morgane, where I spent a few nights just off the Champs Elysees. My route took me along Avenue des Champs-Elysees, past the Place de la Concorde and through the Tuileries garden.
White dust coating my takkies, I smiled at locals soaking up the sun around the ponds. A visit to the Louvre gallery could take an entire day so if you’re pressed for time pick the works you want to see before setting out. You may even get a snap or two of the Mona Lisa if the guards are feeling generous.
From the Louvre I headed for the grand old Notre Dame, where I was just in time to hear the bells toll. The courtyard is a constant throng of tourists, but I managed to block out the chaos and enjoyed some frivolous gargoyle spotting.
From there, with a pressing dinner engagement at Fouquet’s drawing nearer, I found the nearest Metro station and dashed to the Galleries Lafayette for some last-minute shopping before closing time.
A visit to Paris, no matter how brief, wouldn’t be complete without a visit to the Eiffel Tower, but if you’re wanting to take a trip to the top it’s best you get there really early as it’s one of the most popular spots in the city.
Whether you’re looking for arts and culture, shopping and fashion or just an overdose of people-watching, there really is something for everyone in Paris.
But while the bustling city was fun, the highlight was those few days in Lyon. I relished the opportunity to experience the beauty and generosity of France and entertain fantasies of one day taking up residence in a glorious old chateau, filling my days with exploring the lush gardens and my evenings sipping Champagne before a roaring fire in one of the reception rooms.
Until then however, I’ll have to be content with the occasional macaroon and flip through my French phrase book.
l For information, see www.franceguide.com/za - Cape Times