Tbilisi, Georgia - Tbilisi is a particularly attractive city. Rather like an unexpected romance, it grows steadily on you, revealing endearing quirks and characteristics.
It may not be able to compete with the great lovers like Paris, Rome, or London, but it proves to be a shy Cassanova in its own way.
As is typical of many European cities, Tbilisi is on the banks of a winding river, overlooked by hills, castles and beautiful churches.
Brides (with the most elaborate hairdos) and grooms posing for wedding photos on the bridge spanning Mtkvari River (also known as the Kura River) add to the vibe. Clearly it is a favourite spot to record this landmark day in the lives of young couples.
History tells that King Vakhtang Gorgasali founded a city here in order to avail himself and his court of the hot waters which he stumbled across while out hunting. His hawk took off after a pheasant but did not return. Searching the forest, the king found both birds scalded to death in a steaming pool.
He then cut down the dense forest in order to build a city, and its name stems from the ancient Georgian word tbili meaning warm. A hot sulphur spring still feeds modern day Turkish baths in the city.
A towering statue of the king astride his horse looks out over the city. A giant of a man, he is said to have been able to fight tirelessly in battle and, even dressed in full armour, carry a war-horse on his shoulders up a hillside; and on foot, outrun a deer. This paragon of a man was not just physically immense, he was apparently an astute politician.
On the front of his military helmet a wolf was depicted, on the back a lion. His enemies, the Persians, feared him and often cried out to one another: “Dar’ az gurgsar!” (“Beware of the wolf’s head!”). Hence he became known as “Gorgasali”.
Tbilisi blends old with modern, as can be seen in the police stations made completely of glass – to reflect the transparency the force is supposed to emulate. The same applies to many of the newer police stations throughout the country.
The contemporary Bridge of Peace over the Kura River is particularly attractive at night, when it sparkles with changing lights. Classy art galleries, and a nifty parliamentary building reflect the modern face of the city.
Rustaveli Avenue, the main artery of Tbilisi, is named after the medieval Georgian poet, Shota Rustaveli. Starting in Freedom Square, this renovated avenue runs for about 1.5km.
While many of the glamorous shops are located here, it is the charm of the restored buildings which catches the eye. Each one offers a different style, colour, character and elegance.
The enormous new Holy Trinity Cathedral, high on a hill, attracts worshippers in their droves.
Christianity flourishes throughout the country and, for me, a particularly delightful sight was of a priest hearing the congregation’s petitions. Among them was a young boy, who whispered in the priest’s ear. With a smile, the man of God pulled his prayer stole over the boy’s head so he could make his confession with some privacy.
Later, at another church, I struck up a conversation with a young woman bearing flowers. As she placed these on a grave in the grounds, she said. “He was not only my spiritual guide, he was my actual father. He was the priest here for many years and his congregation loved him dearly.”
Bunches of other flowers surrounding the grave bore testament to this.
The best time to ride the cablecar up to the fortress is at night, when the city’s lights add to the atmosphere.
While the galleries and markets in Tbilisi are certainly inviting, be aware that many of the items on sale can be picked up much cheaper in other parts of the country.
Treat of tales, treasure
The tale of Jason and the Argonauts’ search for the Golden Fleece, it seems, was not just a figment of the imagination of the poet Homer.
Modern-day Georgia claims it was the location for that fabulous fleece, and bases this on the fact that one of its rivers was full of gold flakes. These came from alluvial workings upstream; and often a sheep’s fleece was placed downstream in the river to trap this fluid wealth. It is this that Medea is said to have helped Jason steal from her father. So, visitors learn that legend and history are often companions in this remarkable country.
When it comes to magnificent gold filigree jewellery, the best place to view ancient masterpieces of this intricate jewellers’ craft is in the Treasury of the State Museum, located in Tbilisi. Here pre-Christian gold artefacts cause visitors to gasp at their sheer beauty.
Visitors also garner fascinating snippets of information from the informative tour guides, such as the fact that many medical instruments used to probe wounds, were made from silver, because it helped prevent, or allay infection.
Visit www.museum.ge
Where to eat
Pavement cafés in a trendy, renovated section of the old quarter of Tbilisi offer their patrons more than just a memorable meal.
Look closely, and you will see that many provide hookahs (water pipes) for smoking pleasure. A relaxed, yet upbeat atmosphere thus pervades, with many young people, fashionably dressed in the latest jeans, hanging out there.
If looking for a quick, cheap bite, head for one of the tiny cafes, strongly supported by the less affluent locals. They are everywhere.
When it comes to evening fine dining, the Kopala Hotel’s restaurant (www.kopala.com) is much in demand. It offers Georgian and international cuisine.
On different levels, with picture windows and a terrace, it provides a spectacular view of the old quarter, climbing up the hillside, and with the floodlit castle fortress adding a spectacular backdrop.
Where to stay and how to get there
The four-star Kopala Hotel (www.kopala.com) in central Tbilisi is within easy walking distance of the bridge leading across the river to the old quarter.
It is just 500m from Avlabari Metro Station.
Foreign currency – the US dollar seems to be most in demand can readily be exchanged for the Georgian Lari approx 1.7 (R10) to the dollar in exchange shops.
Women should carry a headscarf or shawl, as some churches will not allow you in without one.
However, many churches have scarves and also skirts (for those wearing slacks or with legs exposed) available at the entrance. There is no charge for them.
GETTING THERE:
Emirates (www.emirates.com) has direct flights from Durban to Dubai. FlyDubai (www.flydubai.com) flies from Dubai to Tbilisi. The writer, however, flew Dubai to Yerevan in Armenia, and overlanded to Tbilisi.
Sunday Tribune