Travel bliss on Rhodes island

Published Jan 27, 2016

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However, you look at it, the Greek island of Rhodes is a long way away for South Africans.

You can fly to London and then from Gatwick to Rhodes or, as we did, fly to Istanbul and on to Athens and then connect to Rhodes.

Rhodes is an island, it seems, that has everything. It is a prime destination for Europeans seeking the sun and it is true that during high season it is heaving with package tourists.

There is no shortage of touristy hotels, but to get the best of the island, search the internet for a B&B or pension off the beaten path.

 

History

I was charmed by the Crusader history on the island, and especially in the capital, also called Rhodes. Part of the town is walled, called the Old City; inside the walls, restaurants, guest houses and market stalls rub shoulders with beautifully restored sites. The 15th-century Knights Hospital is now the Archaeological Museum, where the exquisite marble Aphrodite of Rhodes is kept in a glass display case.

There is plenty of ancient history to be seen at the Lindos acropolis – a strenuous 15-minute uphill walk – and at Kamiros, a ruined 5BC city with superb sea views. The story of Rhodes is one of occupation, located as it is strategically close to the Turkish coast, and there is evidence of the 16th-century Ottoman occupation in the mosques in Rhodes city.

The Italians colonised the island in 1912, leaving behind some neo-classic architecture, before Rhodes was occupied by the Germans in 1944 and then finally liberated after World War II by Allied forces.

 

Beaches

The beaches may be a bit pebbly, but the calm Aegean water is a pleasure. Elly is the most popular beach in Rhodes city but there are many other gorgeous beaches. On the east coast and not far from the capital is Anthony Quinn beach – so called because this is where the film The Guns Of Navarone was shot and the famous actor is said to have visited the taverna there. It is a stunning setting, with crystal-clear, aquamarine water and some prime spots to catch the sun.

The Kalithea beach – where there is an entrance fee of E4 (R75) – is also a great swimming spot, with a terrace restaurant and excellent changing facilities and toilets. It’s worth the entrance fee because at most beaches you have to change in a toilet cubicle or on the beach. There is also a shower on this beach. For less busy beaches, try Lardos and Genadi.

 

Weather

Rhodes has an average 300 days of sunshine a year and summer temperatures cluster around the 30C mark. There are still a surprising number of people who lie and bake all day on the beach but I found it got too hot between noon and 3pm so retreated to my room, with its thick walls and shutters, or a museum during the hottest hours.

 

Food

You’ll find all the great Greek food specialities here – moussaka, kleftiko (lamb), meze and seafood. Some have an island spin like the moussaka, which had a layer of potato under the béchamel sauce. I had excellent kleftiko at Indigo and delicious meze and white wine at Ouzokaffinedes in Rhodes Old City.

Going to an olive farm for a tasting makes an enjoyable outing. A tour guide I hired for the day took me to Siana, a village south of Rhodes city, where I tasted Laomilos oil from an estate. It’s surprising how rich and sweet olive oil is, and how each variety is different from the others, when it comes straight from the fields.

 

Wine

I tasted wines at Alexandris - a small family vineyard based in Embona, the heart of Rhodes’s wine country. Here winemaker Panayiotis Alexandris took us through the range of wines available under their label, from the fruity white, made with Athiri grapes, to the rich, elegant red – a Grenache rouge-Mandilaria blend – and the delicate late-harvest Petra rosé.

 

Transport

You can take your pick of several types of reliable, comfortable transport, from buses travelling to the different resort beaches and towns, to the plentiful taxis parked outside the Old City. There are bicycles and scooters for rental and if you want a guided tour you can hire a driver for the day. Boat taxis and ferries operate between the various Rhodes ports, other islands and the Marmaris coast of Turkey.

 

People

On Rhodes, shop attendants and restaurateurs were friendly and helpful without fail – manfully trying to communicate across the language divide – and the staff at our B&B, Hotel Attiki, were a delight. The place was spotless and there was always someone on hand to open the gate or provide some information. Mara and Francesco, our hosts, treated us like family and we grew to like them enormously.

 

Water sport

Swimming and snorkelling are the only water sports I do but we saw people at Elly and at Lindos windsurfing, jetskiing and going on banana rides. Buses leave Rhodes city regularly for the Faliraki Water Park, which is very popular.

 

Mountains and forests

I drove with the driver I hired (E130 for unlimited kilometres, 9am to 6pm) through dense forests to Monolitho – “lonely rock”. It was a 10-minute walk up to a small church perched on the top, called Agios Panteleimon, which is surrounded by medieval castle walls. The view from here over forests and vineyards to the coast is nothing short of spectacular.

From there we went to Profitis Ilias, a pine forest, where the quaint Hotel Elafos stands. Built by the Italian occupiers in the Swiss chalet-style, it stands out from the surroundings. Inside, the hotel lounge looks like a Viennese café, with art deco furniture and fittings.

 

Accommodation

We stayed at the charming Hotel Attikiin the Old City – a perfect location for sightseeing, dining and shopping, but also beautifully appointed and managed. Mara and Francesco will make you feel welcome and personally serve you breakfast every morning so you can catch up on news and hear their useful hints and recommendations.

My room was shady and cool, a bonus during the hottest hours, and the whole place, with its patio breakfast area and collection of rather snooty cats, felt familiar after day one.

Yvonne Fontyn, Saturday Star

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