Reunion – Blink and you will miss it. On a map, that small dot in the Indian Ocean between Madagascar and Mauritius is the island of Reunion, created by the eruptions of a nowdormant volcano.
This French overseas department is one of France’s best kept secrets.
It offers rugged scenery, an occasional eruption from an active volcano and memorable and distinctive cuisine.
The date of the island’s discovery is a matter of conjecture. It was not until 1663 that Reunion was permanently inhabited, with the population now reaching almost 900 000.
The island is a melting pot of culture and colours with many inhabitants descended from Africans, Chinese, Indians and French. This in turn produces some amazing cuisine that should not be missed.
But to build up an appetite for those taste sensations, Reunion offers some great treks. The volcano created three “Cirques” – Mafate, Salazie and Cilaos, often described as natural amphitheatres – that surround the Piton des Neiges, the island’s highest peak.
Walking or biking through the Cirques yields up some amazing views of the island, the sky and the countryside. The Col du Taibit that straddles the Cirques of Mafate and Cialos is the ideal place to get a panoramic view of the two.
For sportier types, an overnight stay in the village of Marla, nestled in the Cirque of Mafate, is a great way to experience more rugged tourism. From Marla, the trekker can head to Trois Roches, a stunning place to have a break and lunch.
Don’t worry about being disturbed by noise. Mafate can only be accessed by foot or air. There are no roads.
Reunion’s third Cirque, Salazie, has its own character. Situated to the east, it has set world records for rainfalls and is resplendent with lush vegetation.
Going via the village of Hell Bourg, having stopped off at the Voile de la Mariee waterfall on the way, head for the forest of Belouve. While you could cheat and drive up to the gate of Belouve, a walk through the forest is beautiful and rewarding
Once there, head for the Trou de Fer, or Iron Hole, which is some 300m deep and sometimes called “the Everest” of canyons.
For visitors seeking more sedate outings, a good way to see much of the island is to drive from Saint-Denis to the Piton de la Fournaise, Reunion’s active volcano, via the lush Plaine des Palmistes and the dry and dusty Plaine des Sables, which looks like something from a dystopian movie.
Go for the sunrise, but wrap up as temperatures can plummet to minus territory. The climb to the top of the Piton can be hazardous but going to Formica Leo, a small volcanic cone at the bottom of the Pas de Bellecombe, will feel like an achievement in itself.
Back in your car, don’t forget to stop to catch a view of the Riviere des Remparts on the way. Head down to Cap Mechant, another beauty spot but also the name of a terrific restaurant in Saint Philippe. The fresh palm heart salad is a delight, followed by “cari poulet”, a chicken curry which comes with a spicy “rougail tomate” sauce and peas.
For the afternoon siesta, head to the beach. La Saline, plage de l’Hermitage, is a tranquil place to hang out after any long walk.
For the “aperitif”, feast on fried “bonbons-piments”, fried finger food made of dried peas, chillis, onions and spices.
Also available are samoosas and “bouchons”, Reunion’s version of Chinese dumplings, as well as “sarcives”, which is pork marinated in soy sauce, honey and the anise liqueur pastis.
Follow this with chop suey or a “chouchou gratin”, a baked dish made with the gourd called chayote or mirliton in English. If you have room, finish off with a “bonbon-cravate”, a sweet fried dough in the shape of a bow-tie, or a rolled, cream-filled “chemin de fer” cake.
If you have time, stay a night near the Observatory of Makes. The absence of light pollution makes Reunion one of the most breathtaking places in the world to watch stars.
There are so many, it seems like they have been painted on the dome of the universe.
Reuters