Dubai - Dubai is not my favourite city. I would have much preferred the United Arab Emirates in the days when Wilfred Thesiger was drawn to remote oases and dusty villages, with women drawing water from the well.
Still, you cannot but admire the architectural skyline of modern-day Dubai and doff your headshawl to those who dreamed a phenomenal dream – which they turned into vibrant reality.
There are a multitude of ways to spend a stopover and, because there is so much on offer, the list can run into reams. So I have selected some of the usual outings, and interspersed them with some spicy ones.
Where you stay can make a difference. Rather than head for the Jumeirah area, home to some of the famous landmarks such as the Atlantis Palm or Burj Al Arab (which are unaffordable, unless you are some kind of sheikh in your own right), I checked into the Deira area, choosing a hotel near the Clocktower – a traffic roundabout, with fountain and clock, hence the name. Not only is it close to the airport (think cheaper taxi fare), it is within walking distance of the famous Dubai Creek.
Admittedly, not many people walk in Dubai. The city does not really lend itself to this, but I walked for hours, and survived the heat and traffic.
l Water buses still ply The Creek, crossing between four set points, and a visitor can buy a day pass. One journey, though, is enough to give you a sample of what was once the major way of crossing the waterway. Huge dhows are still moored at the Dhow Wharf, and many have been turned into restaurants. You can take a dhow cruise – preferably in the evening.
l For a birds’ eye perspective, how about boarding a seaplane with Seawings (+971 4807 0708; e-mail: [email protected]). You are not looking at small change here, but if you can afford to splash out, why not?
l Slightly cheaper, but still pricey, hop on a helicopter. Helidubai (+971 4208 1455) has different packages. The one which caught my eye was the Night Lights – 22 minutes of spectacular visuals of the city’s LED lights and colours.
l These two options are the rich cream topping, but for those able only to afford plain cake, all is not lost. Arabian Adventures (+971 4214 4888) offers a plethora of tours to sign up for, such as taking high tea while watching the sport of kings, polo. This can give you a feel of living the classy existence, albeit for a couple of hours. It is limited to the winter months. Summer temperatures make polo unthinkable for man or horse.
Arabian Adventures also offers:
l A cultural walking tour of Dubai (the most reasonable and interesting way of exploring any city).
l Arabian sheikhs love to hunt, especially with swift falcons. The Falcon Experience gives an in-depth understanding of this tradition. Meet and learn about the selection of falcon species, watch these fleet-feathered hunters in action, and learn about training methods.
l For those who enjoy deserts, Secrets of the Desert, could appeal. Visit Fossil Rock, a towering monolith; explore canyons and wadis, and enjoy a picnic lunch in a wadi; or Sundowner which allows dune driving, and Arabic buffet in a Bedouin-style camp. Camel rides, henna hand-painting, belly dancing are on the cards. You can also stay overnight.
l The gungho brigade will relish sandboarding, dune buggy or camel riding.
l Explore the city by bus, or use the monorail. Both allow visitors to hop off and on, explore by foot, and, of course, spend time in those famous malls. The buses go where the monorail does not, so bear that in mind. The open topped City Sightseeing (www.citysightseeing-dubai.com) buses include in their 24 hour ticket a free Tour Dubai Dhow Cruise, free walking tours between October and April, free entry to the Dubai Museum, as well as one free ride on the Creek water bus. Purchase a 48-hour ticket, and they throw in entrance to the Dubai Aquarium.
l Big Bus Tours (+971 4389 1600; e-mail [email protected]) has double-decker buses offering similar deals, plus a combo day and night tour. For those who like to do their exploring by water, The Yellow Boats (www.theyellowboats.com) offers a chance to spot the landmarks from the sea.
l No visit to the city is complete without making it to the top of the towering Burj Khalifa. The express elevator travels to the observation deck at 10m a second.
l Test run Ski Dubai’s indoor ski resort; while those who get their thrills from the throaty roar of a car engine might want to head for the Dubai Autodrome, a fully integrated motor sports facility where visitors can pretend to be F1 racers under the guiding eye of an expert. There is also the Vas Marina Circuit, the meeting place for champions.
l Head further afield to Abu Dhabi, for Ferrari World’s theme park. If you can tear yourself from the adventure, Italian dining and cafe delicacies beckon the peckish.
l Tours to Abu Dhabi; the oasis city of Al Ain; Sharjah and Ajman; the East Coast of the Emirates are also options.
l I haven’t mentioned the beaches, they probably won’t hold much allure for South Africans who have a dazzling selection of their own at home.
l The gigantic shopping malls are villages on their own, but Dubai is no longer a wonderful duty-free or cheap destination.
l I had planned to take in the spectacular sound and light show at Dubai Mall’s famous fountain (The mall shares the same stop on the monorail as the Burj Khalifa). However, after hours of walking, bed beckoned. Another stop-over will have to be on the cards, if just to take in the delights of this water feature.
Sunday Tribune