Dress your shape, not your size

Published Sep 26, 2014

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ESTHER LEWIS

Spring is here and with it, layers of clothes disappear, new fashion lines are on the rails, and everyone is looking their best. But for many, especially those not shaped like ramp models or store-window mannequins, choosing the right outfit is a struggle.

The one thing experts agree on is whether you’re a size 28 or 48, the rules are the same: wear well-fitted clothes, and wear them with confidence.

Isabel de Villiers, a Cape Town designer with the label of the same name, says: “It’s all about proportion and shape. Dress according to your body shape, not your size.”

She says fabrics with a bit of stretch work better for the curvy body, but cautions that the proportion of the print should not be too big or small for your body.

“Curvy ladies tend to avoid bright colours. Colour is your friend. Celebrate summer in the gift of colour.”

The most flattering style for a plus-sized woman is the wrap dress. De Villiers says it gives you the most flattering silhouette: the hourglass.

This shape can also be created with separates such as pencil skirts, crop tops, and full skirts.

Another tip is wear a belt at the waist to create the illusion of an hourglass.

Fabric plays an important role. She says stretch fabric will hug the body, while woven fabric is great for Grecian drapes. But whatever you wear, there are several important aspects of an outfit to bear in mind, says De Villiers. These include underwear and balance.

Balance can be achieved by pairing a slouchy tee with skinny jeans. Or if you’re wearing a flare skirt, pair it with a fitted wrap top.

As the weather warms, there may be a lot of surprise invites for social gatherings. There are certain items every woman must keep in the boot.

De Villiers says her favourite is a printed chiffon scarf. “You can have so much fun with a scarf, the scope is endless.”

As for her favourite item this spring: De Villiers recommends the kaftan as a great way to bring colour and print to your outfit.

“The only way to look chic, no matter your shape and size, is to wear confidence this summer. Try something new, try something bold. Get out of your comfort zone.”

Isabel’s hot tips for summer fashion

* Patterns: geometric, black and white colour combinations, floral, stripes, art movement.

* Colours: white, gold, sparkle and shine, bright pink, orange and yellow.

* Silhouettes: full skirts, crop tops, roomy silhouettes.

* Fabric: Sheer, shiny, chiffons.

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How men of all shapes can look good

French stylist Olivia Davidson grew up in world fashion capital Paris. Now based in Cape Town, Davidson knows the value of image and style.

Owner of Style Management, a style and image consultancy, Davidson relocated to Cape Town 11 years ago. She styles men and women, locally and globally.

When it comes to men, she says appearances matter in ways that can affect their daily lives. Within a few seconds of meeting a person those initial opinions are formed. Clothing is the primary instrument in creating a positive first impression, says Davidson.

“People are superficial, so the better you’re dressed, the more respect and attention they’re going to automatically give you,” she says.

Davidson says that dressing well helps with self-confidence, which in turns leads to better performance at work. She says the key is choosing a style that fits the personality, lifestyle and budget of a client.

“Of course in a perfect world we shouldn’t be judged on appearances, but we are.

“So why wouldn’t you want to look your best, especially in a professional setting?” says Davidson.

She has put together these tips for how men can dress for their body shape:

* Very tall and skinny men: They should always make sure they have adequate length in sleeve and trousers. Wear plain and simple patterns to avoid looking overwhelming.

* Heavy, tall men: Go easy on the textures and heavy cloths. Wear simple, dark suits and jackets made from lightweight cloths to tone down your bulk, and steer clear of double-breasted jackets. Jeans should be relaxed but not too baggy.

* Average size with beer bellies: The trick is to wear clothing that highlights the right areas while diverting people’s eyes from your midsection. Embrace darker colours on top, make sure your clothes and suits aren’t too baggy, otherwise you will look bigger than you are. Ensure you nail the bottom half of your body with something flattering, it’ll help the rest of your body look good too. Having a slimmer leg trouser, and a nice shoe will distract from your top half.

* Short and heavy set: Many large men dress in clothes that are several sizes too big, thinking they are disguising their physique. It actually makes you look far bigger. So the fit is the most important. You don’t want your clothes to hug you too tightly or too loosely. You may need a good tailor to adjust the fit.

* Short: These men need to dress in one colour to elongate their body, easy in a suit, but equally so with jeans and a navy polo for example.Shorter guys can afford to draw attention to bold accessories, such as funky braces under a suit, or brightly patterned socks. Shorts can be tricky.

The wrong length and your legs will look even shorter. You need to get the balance right. Just above the knee will elongate the leg, anything below the knee will make your legs look even shorter.

* Very short men: Same as the above, and they need to make sure that the length of their jackets or blazers is slightly below their behind because it will lengthen the line of your body and make it appear tall, but not too long as it will shorten your legs. Again dark colours to elongate your frame. Avoid high-waisted trousers at all cost.

* All men: Davidson says there should be a good pair of jeans in every man’s closet. A well-cut flattering pair of jeans can make you look amazing with just a simple T-shirt.

For more information and style tips, visit www.stylemanagement.co.za

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Embrace prints and florals

Cape Town designer Ruald Rheeder says men are finally embracing bolder colours and, more importantly, prints.

This summer, men’s must-haves include prints and florals in hues of pastels, combined with the sports lux trend.

Acknowledging that not all men are built like the models who showcase his clothing, Rheeder cautions that a good fit is the most vital part of a man’s outfit.

“The majority of guys wear clothes that are too big. Ensure that everything you buy this season hugs your body – obviously without it being too tight,” he says.

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