He’s the Denzel Washington of the design domain. Having started out as a model at the age of 16, his good looks don’t go unnoticed.
And whether you spot him jogging in neons in the early hours of the morning in Durban’s leafy Morningside suburb or behind-the-scenes on a late night fashion show – you’ll agree that Derrick Mhlongo is everywhere these days.
The 45-year-old model turned model boss, stylist, scout and most recently fashion store owner is one of those pivotal pieces on the fashion chequerboard and as we edge towards South African Fashion Week on Wednesday, his presence in the public sphere becomes even more prominent.
Mhlongo is not one for titles, he is a chameleon, whose fixed mark is to connect people into the overlapping circuits he so easily glides between.
“Young designers look to me for guidance,” he begins to explain.
“I was raised in a Zulu household in KwaMashu. I was one of eight children, my mother was a cab driver and I am the product of Bantu education.
“But I knew this.
“Even as a little boy I knew that much of my life was imposed and I wanted to break free of that system.” Language, he says, played a key role.
“I remember being in Standard 3 and topping my English class. I would watch the Bold and Beautiful on television and think to myself, ‘I want to speak like that’.
“When leadership/exchange programmes came along I jumped on board. It was a chance to experience the way other kids in other schools and communities lived. I was eager – hungry even – to broaden my perspective.”
After matric he applied for a bursary and gained access to a school where he would hone his accent – but also where he gained further insight into other cultures.
When you meet Mhlongo, it is difficult to place him in a racial or social class box – and this is what he was aiming for. He is a South African, straddling various “groups”, with ease.
Language and the ability to “code switch”, or move between languages and more importantly language groups, have made him the quintessential fashion insider at many an event.
He is often co-ordinator, facilitator, judge or producer.
“For me it all comes down to socio-economics. You have to understand people and their behaviour based on where they come from, you have to be empathetic and compassionate to work with people and help them work with others.
“I meet so many talented people who don’t have access or industry knowledge and with just a little help they’re able to enter the fashion world and prosper,” he says. Mhlongo believes he is a product of this same system of ubuntu.
People like ICE boss Tiffany Prior, designer Terrence Bray and SAFW director Lucilla Booyzen would often include me as a judge at events and the exposure helped me gain the confidence to become involved as a mentor. Knowing the network and learning the value chain all helped give me the credibility to be the person that bridges the gap for many. I’m blessed to have understood from a young age that I can be that conduit or missing link for many people’s careers.”
Having founded modelling agency Iindoni Models about eight years ago, he is known for “discovering” models on Durban streets and drawing them into the fold. He was one of the original team that set up the KZN Fashion Council and today assists them by acting as facilitator or creative director. However, his latest cap is as proprietor of 30 on Marriott.
The boutique shop that initially sold David Tlale exclusively now also retails work by his interns. Mhlongo says with retail space being so contentious for young designers, the shop is likely to take on a few in the near future.
“I want to create a local Zara of sorts. A high standard of service with quality garments at good prices,” he says.
For the moment though, he is busy supporting the young designers headed to SAFW next week and they agree that they’re happy to have him in their corner.