Having spent the past 14 years photographing fashion weeks around the world, South African Simon Deiner has earned his title as the country’s leading fashion photographer.
Over the years, Deiner, of SDR Photo, has snapped his way through about 5 000 runway shows in Africa, London and New York. With his eye for photography and extensive know-how of the fast-paced world of fashion, it’s no surprise Deiner is leading a menswear revolution as one of the brains behind Africa’s first menswear fashion week.
The South African Menswear Week (SAMW) takes place in Cape Town from February 5 to 7.
“A lot of people will be watching the event very closely and I am expecting to get a lot of criticism because of my experience in the industry,” says Deiner.
It has taken Deiner and businessman Ryan Beswick over two years to initiate what has never been done in Africa.
“It has taken us this long because we have spent the time really looking at what is happening around the globe in terms of men’s fashion. We are not taking any half measures as we want to get it right from the beginning,” says Deiner.
I met Deiner and Beswick at a coffee shop and they told me that since they made the announcement, they’ve been busy with back-to-back interviews promoting the three-day menswear-focused event.
“What is key for us is that we are focusing on a niche market that has been getting very little attention in Africa, unlike the rest of the world. It is mostly women’s wear that dominates here,” says Beswick.
“We are creating a platform where key industry players in menswear will all be under one roof, from designers and buyers to the media.”
About 25 menswear designers are to showcase their latest design offerings, and will include a mixture of newcomers as well as established heavyweights. Among them are Rich Mnisi, Jenevieve Lyons, Lukhanyo Mdingi, Craig Port, CSquared, Shaldon Kopman’s Naked Ape, Palse Homme, Laduma Ngxokolo, Stiaan Louw, Kim Gush, Mille Collines, Mzukisi Mbane and Chu Suwannapha.
Also included are Innocent Dorkenoo, Afrika Sana and Martin Kadinda from the Swahili Fashion Week.
“It’s not only about providing and building a platform where designers can showcase their collections, but providing a sound business case with marketing and promotion opportunities for designers to grow their businesses,” says Beswick.
He explains that they shortlisted about 50 designers from across South Africa. “We then narrowed it down to about 15 industry leaders and allowed fashion influencers to select their favourites. Most identified similar ones, and what we are now left with are those who they believe in and who are well respected across the country,” he says. The balance will be made up of newcomers.
“There is no padding or favouritism when it comes to the designers’ schedule. If you are not good enough, you are not getting through the curation process,” adds Deiner.
It is planned that SAMW will take place twice a year to showcase the spring/summer and autumn/winter collections, says Beswick.
“Staging SAMW twice a year will be in line with what is happening around the rest of the world,” Deiner explains.
“At the end of the day, fashion weeks are not only about entertainment; there is a business element to the mix as well. Our fashion cycles are shorter, therefore having the event now is giving the designers an opportunity to showcase what will be in stores from March onwards, which will be good for business.”
Expect an intimate event venue with a slimmed-down guest list of key media players, buyers and designer guests.
“We will never compete with African Fashion International in terms of the number of attendees, but we are providing a niche platform where everyone attending understands why they are there,” says Deiner.
Beswick says technology is going to play a pivotal role in the event, “from live streaming to live social media. We’ve also embraced fitness tracking of models, and are pushing our designers and producers to go digital”.
The models who will walk the shows have been chosen and will be trained by Jimi Owobo of the Jimisterio Catwalk Academy. Deiner says the designers went for the slimmed-down model Euro-look instead of the buff muscled look.
“The growth in men’s grooming is phenomenal. Menswear is the only fast-growing area in fashion – it’s in double digits right now.
“London has taken menswear to the next level – they stage the same number of menswear fashion weeks as women’s,” Deiner says.
“Men are taking better care of themselves and are investing more and more in grooming. South Africa’s middle class is exploding and guys want to dress well,” he adds.
* Tickets for SAMW are available on WebTickets (www.webtickets.co.za)