Young designers often feel they have the odds stacked against them. They do – as retailers. However, they also have the same luxury as couturiers. As free entity creatives, making custom one-off garments, they are at liberty to do and say what they want through fashion.
The question is whether or not they are presenting ideas and thoughts that react and respond to their environment – whether they’re using their art to critique society or if they’ve lost their voice entirely to the business of fashion?
Sim Tshabalala, producer at the Durban Fashion Fair (DFF), which begins in the city on Wednesday, encourages self expression but places emphasis on commercial viability.
“There are too many people making statements – be it about music, elements of youth culture or plain anti-establishment sentiment – they are often extreme and distancing with no link to the designer’s immediate environment.
“To grow and prosper in this industry, young designers need to strike a balance between creative genius and commercial appeal.”
Fashion designer and lecturer Terrence Bray disagrees.
“I think younger designers are making their biggest social statement, ironically, by making no statements at all. There is a lack of substance and passion perhaps due to socioeconomic issues and fast fashion.
“We must remember the lack of skills development for our young people. They have limited infrastructure and resources. On the flip side, this does weed out the true creatives who will rise above these challenges and innovate anyway.
“The South African fashion industry is still struggling to find its voice and in the process of fast tracking people we are losing good, sustainable design.
He said: “The designers are not blameless. We live in an age of entitlement. Designers are not using their craft to communicate ideas and push boundaries, they are under the delusion that they know it all and so there is no need to question or challenge the ideals of society.
“Also we are building a nation of ‘creatives’ that ultimately have nowhere to go. We need to turn some focus to building a culture that appreciates this craft and thereby elevates it and expands its consumer base. Without that their efforts are fruitless and they are acutely aware of this.”
Cindi Shangase, convener of the DFF, responded: “Each country has different priorities. We are not Europe or America. Our consumer may prioritise putting food on the table versus looking fashionable.
“Indeed, it doesn’t have to be an expense to wear clothing that says something about who you or what you believe in, but the reality is that in South Africa this market is small. Our audience is not yet conscious or appreciative enough to spend on artistic work.
“Young people must still explore who they are, build their brand and aim for a balance to make a living.”
Designer David Tlale says as a young designer he was not vocal about what was happening in his environment.
“It was at the height of racism in South Africa but I felt the runway was not the place. For me the fashion week is an opportunity to build a brand and so I was cautious.
“We are in the public eye and our views matter, but it can be negatively or positively perceived and will have repercussions.
“The ramp is not a space to vent or air political views. Making fashion-related statements such as being unhappy about the small number of black models on international runways are fine. Positive affirmations that address issues such as xenophobia – perhaps ‘We are Africa’ come from a good place.”
Tlale says young designers should be aware that they can ruin their career with strong opinions and should perhaps wait until they are established and will be heard.
He adds: “Fashion, music and art are intertwined and the heartbeat of the world. It brings us together so we should use it positively.”