London - Once thought to be a dangerous artery clogger, coconut oil has undergone something of an image transformation, with claims that it helps with everything from metabolism to immunity.
In the latest study, scientists from the Athlone Institute of Technology in Ireland found that coconut oil treated with enzymes stopped the growth of streptococcus bacteria, a major cause of tooth decay.
They also showed that adding coconut oil to your diet protects against thrush, because it attacks the yeast that causes the infection.
Other researchers have linked it to a boosted immune system and better heart health, as well as improving skin conditions such as eczema.
Perhaps not surprisingly, sales have reportedly doubled at upmarket health stores such as Whole Foods supermarket.
WHY WAS COCONUT OIL PREVIOUSLY VILIFIED?
Previous studies linked coconut oil to raised cholesterol levels and an increased risk of heart attacks. But these studies were carried out using partially hydrogenated coconut oil: the production process creates trans fats that are known to have an adverse effect on cholesterol levels.
One 1994 study from the US Centre For Science in Public Interest suggested a large portion of cinema popcorn had as much saturated fat as six burgers, thanks to it “being popped in highly saturated coconut oil”.
HOW IS TODAY’S OIL DIFFERENT?
What’s becoming popular in health food stores is something altogether different to the highly processed coconut oil used in the Nineties.
Today’s virgin coconut oil has not been chemically treated. And though it does contain saturated fat, this might not be as harmful as once thought. Nearly half of the fat in coconut oil is lauric acid — a medium-chain fatty acid that increases levels of “good” HDL cholesterol.
SO SHOULD WE ALL GLUG COCONUT OIL?
Healthy it might be, but coconut oil is still a saturated fat.
“Though the view on certain saturated fats has changed, we still have a mountain of evidence that too many is not good for health,” says Nigel Denby, of the British Dietetic Association.
“We really would have to be mad to turn to a saturated oil such as coconut instead of something such as olive oil, unless it was for flavour.”
With a delicate, natural sweetness, coconut oil might be useful in Thai cooking, but it should be added to the diet in moderation “until more is known about it”, says Mr Denby. He advises cooking with it no more than a couple of times a week.
Dr Daniel Hwang, a molecular biologist at the University of California who has been studying its effects, says: “There are a lot of claims that coconut oil may have health benefits, but there is no real scientific data to confirm this yet. But coconut is a good food in moderation.” - Daily Mail