Cape Kitchen’s a classic

Published Jan 18, 2012

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It’s not a pairing that comes to mind: zinfandel matched to a first course of lamb skilpadje and ox tongue– yet this flagship red, made from a companionable cultivar, teams well with this and other traditional Cape specialities

Boasting attractions like horse and carriage rides, a transport museum and a family market, Blaauwklippen is renowned for more than fine wine and good fare. This 180ha historic estate on the R44 also offers a welcome respite from encroaching suburbia.

The recent opening of the Cape Kitchen adds an option of evening dining with a carte that celebrates our heritage cuisine. Meanwhile, the Sunday family market has added picnic-style platters to the culinary mix.

Until recently, Wineland restaurants specialising in Cape fare were thin on the ground. Today there are three options, of which the most classic is the Cape Kitchen, an elegant venue with copperware adding gleaming touches to an otherwise simple decor: wooden floor, tall-backed navy chairs, tables dressed with classic white napery.

Chef Hannele Rabé presents a sophisticated but authentic interpretation of Kaapse kos, updating classics without changing their nature. Curry coconut mussel soup comes in a miniature potjie, creamy and moreish and paired with a little light-as-air vetkoek. Smoked ostrich stars in a contemporary salad with pineapple, peppadew and spiced macadamias. Main courses range from linefish through duck to a lamb trio and venison Wellington. Vegetable accompaniments include slaphakskeentjies and pumpkin fritters. I sampled the macadamia bobotie with basmati rice, warm cucumber salad and sambals – flavours were traditional and presentation appealing.

Desserts are limited to melktert cheesecake paired with butternut-orange sorbet, curried banana samoosa with granadilla icecream and brandy tart with almond caramel icecream. Prices range from R50 for starters to R125 for the lamb trio. The Cape Kitchen is open for dinner only, from Wednesday to Friday, and will probably close in April.

Blaauwklippen cellar produces three ranges of wines to suit all palates and budgets. The pink-tinged white zinfandel complements poultry dishes well, and the four-star shiraz and cab offer full-bodied companions to meat dishes, alternatives to the classic red zinfandel. There are two new whites for summer sipping, an easy-drinking low-alcohol chenin and a delicious, delicate viognier.

Blaauwklippen’s Sunday family market is a popular meeting place with stalls on the lawns and under the fig trees at the wine centre. Along with fresh produce, cheese, chocolate, Dutch and Thai specialities are offered. As part of an empowerment project, the farm’s kitchen staff assemble picnic-style platters which offer informal alternatives to lunch in the Barouche restaurant. The project is backed by an entrepreneurship course which all farm worker are attending, with the aim of equipping them to run their own small businesses. The market runs from 10am to 3pm.

Elegant wines lined up to invade the Low Countries

Dustin Osborne is ready to roll. Recently appointed GM and winemaker at Aaldering Vineyards, he hopes to start bringing in chardonnay in a fortnight, followed by sauvignon blanc and pinotage.

Fons and Marianne Aaldering bought the Devon Valley vineyard eight years ago, and today 16ha are in full production. Previous vintages have included a cab/merlot blend, pinotage, and well-received shiraz,

The 2009 vintages were released last October when Dustin Osborne introduced them along with a limited maiden vintage of chardonnay.

Osborne grew up on a Free State farm and obtained his degree in viticulture and oenology in New Zealand, where he also gained practical experience before stints in Californian, British Columbian and Stellenbosch wineries. He moved from Mont Rochelle cellar in Franschhoek to take charge at Aaldering in the middle of last year, where he aims to produce elegant wines that are true to character in the new state-of-the-art winery. The tanks were due to be installed earlier this week. The tasting centre is scheduled to open in April.

Fons Aaldering is uniquely well suited to marketing his wines in the Low Countries: his food distribution company in the Netherlands supplies more than 3 500 restaurants in Holland, Belgium, Germany and Luxemborg.

He is putting these connections to further good use through a collaboration with StreetSmart. The non-proft organisation raises funds in South Africa for street children through R5 donations from diners at restaurants which belong to the scheme. Thanks to his involvement, StreetSmart cards will be appearing on restaurant tables across northern Europe. - Weekend Argus

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