Cape Town - Chenin fans, myself included, did not need a second invitation to the Association’s Winter Showcase.
We packed ourselves in to Delaire’s hilltop venue with enthusiasm. On the menu: a tasting of 20 top Cape chenins, chosen to enjoy in cold weather, richer than their summery cousins, and all but one having spent time in wood.
We started with 2013 vintages and worked backwards to a 2009 treasure. We finished with a couple of Noble Late Harvest chenins, unsung stars of the show. There were two I would not go out of my way for, but the rest offered proof that South Africa can and does make outstanding chenin blancs.
Favourites are difficult to pinpoint, but my top five include Delaire Graff’s 2013, De Morgenzon 2013, Jean Daneel Signature 2012, Cederberg Five Generations 2011, and Mulderbosch Single Vineyard 2013.
The last named is one of a trio of 2013 Mulderbosch chenins, each from a different Stellenbosch vineyard, identified just as Block A, S2 and W. They all spent 10 months in French oak, and are beautifully crafted wines. They move from a crisp and fruity A, from sandy soils, to a spicier, dried fruit example, from Malmesbury shale, to a powerful W, from granite soil, where hints of fynbos enhance smooth creaminess and a great mouthfeel. These are sold as a threesome for R500 – clever marketing, but also a covetable gift for chenin fans.
Good news for the Chenin Blanc Association, which has seen much hard work undertaken by unpaid volunteers in recent years, is that Standard Bank has come on board with a three-year sponsorship agreement. It takes the form of an annual Chenin Top Ten Challenge, and entries are invited from July 1. Each winner will receive R20 000, which must be used to enhance social and economic conditions of winery workers and workplaces. Winners will be announced towards the end of August.
Weekend Argus